Subject: Replacing your starter in an E36 Author: shogun (moderator) : member since March, 2004 : 16310 posts Posted on: 2010-08-07 03:18:10

After running into some problems with my starter, I decided to post some facts. If I knew these going into the job, it would have saved me a lot of time.

There are two types of starters for the E36: pre-1996 and 1996+. There are some differences that you should know about:

http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j253/Dispatch20/starter.jpg
The 1996+ starter is shorter in overall length and cannot be bolted into the engine block with the Bosch OEM bracket. Instead, it has reinforced mounting ears (2-3x the thickness of the pre-1996 version). This starter bolts only to the tranny bellhousing via inverted torx bolts. Also, this verison has threaded mounting ears which make installing/removing a LOT easier.

The pre-1996 starter is a bit longer, and MUST be bolted to the engine block with the bracket. I have a 1997 M3 and I got a pre-1996 starter as a replacement. I did not have a bracket on my original starter, so I didn't use the one in the box with my new starter. Big mistake, since a week later the starter broke clean through at the ears! There are a few tricks to make the pre-1996 easier to use. I used helicoils on the ears to create my own threaded holes. Others have cemented the nuts to the back of the starter.
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my 97 had/has what you show to be a pre 96.

someone asked about removal. it is a bitch and must be done from above. torx head bolts are used, i think 10 or 12 mm.

i posted on this a while back. someone said it could be done from below. obviously they've never been under my car. i do not think its possible. intake must come out, and all the shit tied to it.
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The only way is from the top.
You will have to remove the intake manifold to get to it.
It is a very tight place however it can be done.
Someone once mentioned you could remove it from underneath, however I tried that with no luck.
I just did mine last night.
Now I have a nother problem the car is idling to high. I thought of a leak with no luck.
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To do it from below you must have a manual tranny. You must also drop the tranny crossmember and tilt the entire transmission by jacking up the engine block. Then you have to move all the fuel lines out of the way, and take off a heat shield (over the fuel filter). If you snake your arms the right way you can get a 2' extension onto the torx bolts on the tranny, with a wrench out near the guibo/driveshaft area to turn.

A threaded starter would be a lot easier from below. Nevertheless, I was able to install a non-threaded starter from below. I had to construct some weird combo's of extensions to get the starter ear to tranny bolt that is behind the tranny. Craftsmen has an "obstruction wrench" that would have done the trick I believe. I didn't use it since they were out of stock at the time.

I think it would be easier to do it by removing the intake manifold.
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If the '95 325I starter has the same part number as newer models, I'd say yes. Try realoem.com and compare. A call to the dealer may also help. I don't know the answer for sure.

I do think that all the 6 cylinder starters for the E36 were the same and interchangeable, but I am just guessing....no real evidence to back that up.
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They are not all the same.. But they are interchangeable. When I put in my S52 I used the thread in starter.. So I have an ODB1 tranny with an ODB2 starter.
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Ive done these at work and with the right tools(which i have! ) they can b done from underneath without removing anything apart from the battery leads! They r a pain in the a.. to do and we always replace them with the threaded bolt holes starter. IF we get a pre 96 starter we super glue the nuts in place to get the bolts started. I jam a spanner on the nut and then with a very long extension+ratchet undo the buggers(On a ramp with ratchet at the end of the gearbox! long extension!)
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Im not certain about other models but to replace the starter on a e36 318is you do not need to lower the tranny etc, all the work can be done from above. My starter used torx bolts and was not threaded but this really isn't an issue, i'll explain how to handle the torx bolts as we go.

1. Remove the battery and battery tray.
2. Remove dip stick
3. Remove rubber/plastic tray from under wiper grill.
4. Remove air box to manifold hose.
5. Unbolt the upper manifold and fold it over placing it upside down on the right of the engine bay (looking at the car front on).
6. Remove both fuel pipes going to the rail.
7. Unbolt lower manifold.

Note I was not able to remove the lower manifold completely, i could not work out how to disconnect it from all the wiring on the underside so made do with lifting it and pulling it towards the front of the car. You can use a little copper wire to hold the lower manifold in this position.

8. The first bolt to remove is easy, its to the right of the starter looking at the car from the front.

Note If like mine you have torx bolts you will need the following. The correct socket (i believe a 16mm) for the front and a small ring spanner for the torx bolt behind the starter (i think a 9mm ring spanner fits the torx bolt but this is from memory)

9. The second bolt is an absolute bxxtard! You are about to find you cant reach it with any standard tool so i'll show you how to make a simple tool to do the job. You will need your small ring spanner to hold to torx bolt and the tool pictured.

Note to make the tool you will need an old universal joint and a bench grinder.

1.Take your U joint apart.
2. Find a bar that fits into it as shown.
3. Grind off as much of the two prongs as you can (you're trying to make this as short as possible).

With this tool you will be able to remove the second problematic bolt. Once you have removed the bolts you can position the starter so the wiring nuts are accessible from the front of the car, use several extensions to reach the nuts through the manifold, pipes, wires etc.

10. On completing the job go to your local off license and buy a bottle of wine or equivalent, drink it rapidly and try to never think of this job ever again! Also stand in front of your car doing this for a while

I also found cutting the starter motor studs down made it much easier to handle, space is very tight in there!
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I got to the starter with only disconnecting the battery. I did have to use 2. 3 inch wobble ext. a 18 inch ext. and 2 other 3 inch ext to make it easier. I slide the whole deal with the socket connected above the transmission. You have to kinda push up the insulating shit to make it fit above. with out it connected to the ratchet. put my fingers on the bolt slide the socket on to the bolt then took a shorty wrench and put it on the back nut (shitty pre 96)keeping pressure on the ext. i connected the rachet and held the shorty with one hand and with the rachet near where the drive shaft connects broke it loose and removed both bolts... it did not take very long by my hands BARLEY fit i thouhgt they would get stuck a few times.
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I managed to remove the old starter by only removing one end of a coolant line from the firewall. I tried approaching it is several ways but this is what worked.

I ground down the side of a 16mm ring wrench to fit on the nut from above the car and used a number 12 torx socket with the extensions shown to remove the bolt from under the car. It took some patience but is very do-able. It would be nice to have a lift but I did it in my driveway with both driver's side tires up on blocks.

I placed a lit maglight near the bolt head so that I could see the general location from below the car. To get the socket in place took me getting in and out from under the car several times. It would have been much easier with a buddy.

In the pictures the black extensions are wobble extensions.

If you look hard at the pictures taken from above you can just see my socket on the bolt head.


When placing the wrench on the bolt you can use a light and look through in under the manifold an through the wires while inserting the wrench over the back of the engine.

My car is a '94 5-speed 318i

http://img12.imageshack.us/img12/4106/img6534n.jpg

http://img188.imageshack.us/img188/5774/img6532.th.jpg

http://img188.imageshack.us/img188/1156/img6531x.th.jpg

http://img195.imageshack.us/img195/2787/img6530.th.jpg

http://img195.imageshack.us/img195/6003/img6529oa.th.jpg

http://img196.imageshack.us/img196/4498/img6524i.th.jpg

http://img38.imageshack.us/img38/6222/img6539n.th.jpg

http://img42.imageshack.us/img42/6922/img6520j.th.jpg
The SR0448X (the one Turner sells) doesn't require nuts.
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I have a 94 325i, non threaded starter. I pulled the starter bolts for an auto tranny swap. With the intake manifold off, it was fairly easy to get the nuts/bolts off. PB Blaster the nut/bolt. I used a E12 external torx with a 3/ 1/4 adapter to a stubby 1/4 ratchet to hold the Torx bolt with a 14'' on a 3/8" ratchet for the nut. The stubby was small enough to fit on the tranny side.

5 min to pull the bolts. An hour to figure out hot to get the intake manifold off without breaking stuff. Cleaned the ICV while i'm in there. What a PITA if I was just cleaning the ICV.

Convenient time to swap out hoses while I'm in there anyway
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Thanks for the pic! I used the same extensions to get to the top bolt on my tranny removal. The combination of extensions and wobbles made the two hardest Torx bolts much easier to remove. No experimentation on which extensions to use.

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E46 M3 starter removal.

1. Raise vehicle -- front & rear.
2. Disconnect battery.
3. Remove air housing.
4. Remove air-box, airmass sensor, dipstick-tube & intake housing.
starter is now exposed.
5. Remove wiring from stater.
6. Now go under vehicle. Remove exhaust system - complete [ from manifold to
rear box. Don't foget to remove oxygen sensors wiring plugs]
7. Remove bolts for gear-box cross member. gearbox is now lowered at rear.
8. Remove bolts for stater on bell-housing.
9. Stater is now loose.
10. Remove stater from engine bay side.


NB. Make sure locating pin on gear-box bell-housing is alighned with stater & tighten bolts evenly , when assembling.
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BMW Starter Motor Problems and Faults
Model:
BMW 325 (All)
Complaint:
The starter cable could rub against the brake booster. All cars produced before January 1986 should be checked.
Remedy:

-Disconnect the battery ground cable.
-Loosen the starter cable nut.
-Push the cable towards the engine and tighten the nut. (The cable should be against the stop shoulder of the solenoid.)
-Fasten the starter cable to the engine wiring harness with a cable tie.
-Reconnect the battery ground cable.


Vehicle will not start

Model:
BMW 325e
Complaint:
Although the starter will engage, the instrument panel lights are on, and other electrical items can be operated, the vehicle will not start.
Remedy:
This could be caused due to no voltage at the battery junction block at the 6mm2 black wire, which is located in the engine compartment, which will result in no electrical current to the DME main relay and fuel pump.
To remedy:
Open the harness and inspect the fusible link which is located approx 6 inches from the battery + terminal. If the fusible link is open then use an ohmmeter on the vehicle side of the link to ascertain if a short to the ground has caused the fusible link to open. Replace the fusible link if:

- A short to the ground is discovered. Correct the short before replacing the fusible link.
- No short is found then the fusible link open may be due to a brief overload.


Binding/Sticking Ignition – Starter Motor Failures

Model:
BMW E30,BMW E31, BMW E32, BMW E34, BMW E36 vehicles produced before June 1994
Complaint:
Some vehicles have experienced failed starters usually after the vehicle is turned off. Proceeding this failure vehicles have experienced problems such as loss of sunroof, window, and seat heating, also a discharged battery as a result of continued starter engagement, and a whirring noise under the hood after starting. It is a possibility that these problems may occur on a vehicle which has been equipped with an automatic transmission. Therefore the gear selection switch will cause the starter to disengage as soon as the vehicle is shifted into drive or reverse, but will re-engage with the running engine if the gear is placed in neutral or park causing a loud grinding noise and potential flywheel/starter pinion damage.
Remedy:
When a vehicle with a failed starter is located, or complaints about the vehicle are similar to those listed above, the starter electrical system including the unloader relay circuits must be checked for correct function. The starter pinion and flywheel teeth should also be checked in case they have scouring or other mechanical damage which would cause misalignment or improper mounting surfaces.
If the starter electrical system and flywheel/pinion does not reveal a problem, then the ignition cylinder/lock assembly is the cause of the prolonged starter engagement. All of the mechanical portion of the steering lock must be replaced with the electrical ignition switch. If the starter is damaged that too must be replaced.
On E36 vehicles produced before June 1994 the starter protection function can be retrofitted. E36 vehicles produced prior to January 1994 require the installation of a relay socket, adapter harness, and a starter protection relay. E36 vehicles produced prior to September 1992 with the M50 engine will also require a resistor adapter in series with the black wire of the adapter harness to be installed. Vehicles that are produced from January 1994 till June 1994 only require the addition of one wire and a new relay which has the starter protection feature.


Clutch Switch for Starter Motor Interlock

Model:
BMW Z3 roadster, BMW Z3 coupe (E36/7). Vehicles which have manual transmission.
Complaint:
A no-start situation may arise due to the wiring harness being routed to the clutch switch in such a way that it is permanently under tension and could become damaged.


Send/Receive (S/E) Module for EWS II

Model:
BMW 3 Series (E36), BMW 5 series (E39) vehicles produced between January 1997 and February 1997
Complaint:
Due to the installation of new software (EWS II Software Version 3) a possible incompatibility has arisen between the S/E Module and the EWS II Module which could lead to the keys failing to start the engine.
Remedy:
Utilize the ‘Service Menu’ of the Dealer Communication System, and based upon the response of the system either proceed with corrective action, or take no action at all.
If corrective action is needed then replace the S/E Module with EWS II Software Version 3. Also replace ESW II Module and all defective keys.

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Bosch Starter Motor - E36, E46, Z3 / 6-Cylinder (SR0448X)
Part #: 12411712937 (12 41 1 712 937)
Applications: 1992 - 2005 (E36 E46 E39 Z3)

E36/E46/M50/M52/M54 STARTER - THIS ONE IS THE "LATER" STYLE THAT DOES NOT REQUIRE NUTS.

This Bosch BMW starter motor fits the following BMWs:
1996-1999 3 series (E36) 6 cylinder (328i, 328is, 323is, M3)
1999-2006 3 series (E46) 6 cylinder (323i, 323Ci, 325i, 325Ci, 325xi, 328i, 328Ci, 330i, 330Ci, 330xi)
1997-2003 5 series (E39) 6 cylinder (525i, 528i, 530i)
1997-2002 Z3 Roadster / Coupe (Z3 2.3, 2.5, 2.8, 3.0 & MRoadster/Coupe thru 2000).

2003-2005 Z4 Roadster / Coupe (Z4 2.5i Z4 3.0i M54 engine).

see: http://www.turnermotorsport.com/

E32 750iL 11/88, E32 750iL Highline 03/90
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