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Subject: Umnitza DDE/Angel Eye DIY Install (Long) Author: dwightf : member since February, 2004 : 8088 posts Posted on: 2005-06-07 21:18:30

Here is my documentation of my Umnitza DDE install. Without the installation pictures, I can’t be as detailed with this as I would have liked it to be. I’ve included small little things that might also be overlooked. So consider this a detailed verbal supplement and I’ve taken pictures to help where I can.

First, start off with testing the DDE lights. This is important and the e38 is perfect for this. Open the trunk, prepare the lights and plug everything together into the ballasts. No need to connect them to the wire harness to test them. Hold the correct wire to the battery terminals in the trunk. Make sure both sets light up.

Remember this trough out the entire install
BROWN = BLACK/NEGITIVE
RED = RED/POSITVE

NOTE: The rings are fragile! Do not bend or twist them!

Other important notes:

-Have a big, clean, well-lit work area that is organized to work with the light assembly.
-If you have an older e38, consider ordering new headlight lens gaskets because I couldn’t reuse the old ones in the ’95 because they turned to a goo and feel apart. The gaskets on my ’01 were fine.
-This install differs for the pre and post facelift models (’98 vs. ’99 style), I’ll try to note when something is different.
-Do one side at a time, you have the other side for reference.
-There will come a time in the install when you will step back, look at the workbench and ask yourself what the hell am I doing. This is normal, don’t panic.

Before you begin, have the following:

-Marine Silicone Glue (other glues might not be UV resistant and will yellow overtime)
-Torx T-15/20 Driver (not socket)
-Good set of various size screw drivers
-Wire taps (I got the 3M ones from Wal-Mart, perfect)

OK, let’s get started.

Remove all wiring harnesses from the back of the headlight assembly (non-HID will only be one harness if I remember correctly).



Remove turn signal indicators



Remove the molding under the headlight assembly.

On ’95-’98 M/Y the trim will slid off to the outside. Use a flat screwdriver with a cloth doubled around it to start pushing it out towards the outside of the car.

On ’99-’01 M/Y the scalloped trim will lift off from the bottom first. Use the same method as described above, only try to pop off the bottom half of the trim via the side first, then lift up and away. Re-install in reverse order.



With your Torx driver or screw driver, insert it into the outside edge under the light assembly. There is a plastic like pin that must slid towards the grill to release it from the piece of metal fender below the turn signal indicator. Make sure you do this, or you risk bending the fender under the indicator when you start pulling the assembly.



The next part is tricky, a light helps, but you still can’t see a lot. You are trying to feel around for the two Torx screws at the bottom of the headlight assembly. After some probing, you will find them and un-screw them till loose.



Remove the weather striping by pressing on the tabs all along the top and side (5 TOTAL)




Softly begin to rock the headlight assembly back and forward to remove it. While you do this (and an extra set of hands you trust comes in handy), GENTLY work the fender strip around a small plastic tab that is still sticking out of the light assembly. The key is to be gentle and work out around it.

Now you should have the light assembly on the work bench and have some clue as to where you have put the parts you have removed so far, if you’ve lost them already…better stop now :-) (so you don’t loose them, take out the Torx screws on the bottom if they feel like they might fall out.)

Take some White-out and paint around/over the top of the three Torx screws on the bottom of the headlight assembly before removing the plastic cover (no pic). This marks where the horizontal alignment is, so you can install it exactly the same. Only loosen these, do not fully remove them.

You will see metal clips all around the housing holding the glass or plastic lens cover on. Use a flat screw driver to pop these off starting on the housing side first. Do not try to pop off from the lens side or it will crack. Remove all of these.



Remove the front lens. If it is stuck after removing all the clips, gently put a screw driver between the housing and the lens and rock it to break the seal.

NOTE: I have not went beyond this point with install the DDE’s in the ’95-’98 M/Y, so some things might be different. But if you are doing this install, you should be resourceful enough to figure it out.

Once you have the front lens off, remove the small Phillip screw(s) in the corner(s) of the black housing that holds the plastic rings. One end will lift up easier out of the light housing then the other, slide your finger under it and the other end will pop off. You may have to gently work it, but it will come out.

OK, it’s all down hill from here!

With the plastic ring lens holder sitting upside down, get the DDE’s. This is where it could get tricky.

If you have ’99-’01 lights, you WILL have to trim the ends of the plastic angel eyes. I used sharp tin snips. You will take about 1/8 inch off each end very carefully. Basically, you remove as much as you can before you get to the actual light. You are ONLY removing some of the plastic on the ends (the thing that covers the fluorescent tube). Be very careful not to twist or grip tightly the DDE while you are cutting and avoid the wire and light itself!

With this done to all four, lay the DDE’s in place on the inside of the low and high beam rings. They will not lie flat, this is normal. The ends will stick up a bit, but if you trimmed properly, they should fit flush with the top of the black housing itself.

Get the Marine silicone and make three glue points. Don’t make a big blob (because they will show on the other side) but make sure you get a good amount to hold it in place! These will be in the front end and are subject to shock and vibration, so remember that when installing them. Two points at the top of each side of the DDE, and one small one at the bottom.



Let the silicone totally cure! I recommend at least 3 hours, maybe more (whatever the silicone you are using says). Don’t get in a rush, because if it isn’t fully dried, the Angel eyes will fall off when you are putting the light assembly back into the car when you start tapping and shaking it to get it in. (this happened to me! Had to repeat removal of light lens. Not fun).

Once they are totally glued in, take the wires and run them above the reflector in the light housing (again, more hands to help fish the wire from the back High Beam door). Pull the wires taught so they are not sagging into view (but don’t pull too hard!).

Now put the high beam lamp cover back on with the four DDE wires coming out the back. It will fit tightly, but won’t damage the wires. If you are installing these using the included harness, you have the option of putting the entire ballast into the high beam housing.



Put the light assembly back together in reverse order. Don’t forget the bottom plastic cover that you marked with White-out. When putting the metal clips back on, put one side on the glass/plastic first, and then snap the back side onto the housing.

The two T-15/20 Torx screws that you removed are a real pain to get screwed back in correctly because 1. You can’t see them 2. They like to fall down and get wedged where they shouldn’t be.

Here is a tip that makes it MUCH easier after I played around for 45 min trying to get the screws in straight under the light assembly. Before you start putting the light assembly back into the car, put the torx screw in the housing just far enough so 1/8 inch of thread is sticking out. Now put some of the Marine Silicone on the end of it. Wait 20-30 min for it to get tacky, just enough to hold it in. This way, when you are shoving and pushing the light assembly into place, the screws stay straight and all you have to do with the Torx driver is to “push” the screw into place and it will meet with its threaded hole without falling down and getting stuck between the front bumper and light assembly.

Put the light assembly back in (may require some pushing, shoving and swearing) and again, gently work the plastic tab on the outside on the bottom of the light assembly around the front fender.

Slide the locking pin back into place.

Put on the weather striping.

If you are installing the DEE’s to the parking lights, cut the connectors off the ballasts and crimp on the wire taps. Tap the corresponding wire on the parking lights. You have to be creative to get the wire into the engine bay.



A few things I did while I had everything apart. If your anal, make sure to wipe off any finger prints you get on the plastics lens (both the rings and the inside of the cover lens) before you put it back together because you cant clean it once its in. I also applied Mothers Plastic Polish to the plastic rings inside the lights. Mothers has a UV resistant coating so I thought it may or may not help long term with the yellowing of those lens with age. We’ll see, but after 10 years, my 1995’s were very yellow so why not try and stop it from happening to begin with.



Let me know if there is anything else I should clarify or if you have questions feel free to e-mail me. Thanks.

• Umnitza DDE/Angel Eye DIY Install (Long) (pic) - dwightf 2005-06-07 21:18:30 (18166 views)
  • FINALLY!! Thanks Dwight, great info!! (nt) - Ultymte 2005-06-09 13:50:23 (519 views)
  • Nice job. Thanks dwightf. (nt) - sealbeach740 2005-06-08 17:31:41 (430 views)
  • Thanks, and great job! (nt) - silber98 2005-06-08 09:09:19 (354 views)
  • Re: Umnitza DDE/Angel Eye DIY Install (Long) - bigbodybimmer 2005-06-08 02:15:53 (770 views)
  • Already added to e38.org. Good work! (nt) - DavidC 2005-06-08 00:35:49 (455 views)
  • good write up. a few questions: - zigor911 2005-06-07 21:36:39 (523 views)
    • Re: good write up. a few questions: - dwightf 2005-06-07 22:42:15 (639 views)
      • are all this accessholes are up front? (nt) - zigor911 2005-06-08 08:21:57 (520 views)