This message is marked as Important.

Subject: DIY: Upper timing cover gaskets Author: 04sshd : member since March, 2007 : 5809 posts Posted on: 2008-12-29 17:18:58

Posted by - heifetz17 on www.bimmerforums.com

I couldn't find a diy for replacing the upper timing cover gaskets without also doing the valve cover gaskets and OSV, so I decided to make one.

I was leaking oil from both front corners of the engine, and with the help of bf.c I traced the leak to my upper timing covers. Since I replaced my valve cover gaskets less than 5,000 miles ago, I didn't need to replace them again even though I had to remove the valve covers to get the timing covers. Had they been paper gaskets, I would have had to replace them. That's why I like silicone gaskets! Anyway, here goes:

Notice: This diy was done WITHOUT replacing the valve cover gaskets. If you're replacing yours, extra steps are needed to fully remove the valve covers. Look on e38.org for this writeup. Also note this is for a vehicle with one (1) cam sensor. If you have two, you'll have to remove it from the timing cover.

Tools needed:
*10mm deep well 3/8 ratchet
*10mm 3/4 ratchet
*10mm boxed end wrench (ratcheting if available)
*16mm 3/4 ratchet with 1 in. extension
*flat head screwdriver
*T25 screwdriver or the like

Driver's side

First, find the 10mm bolt holding a hose to the upper timing cover. Remove the bolt and pull the hose up and over the radiator hose to keep it out of the way. This pic was taken after I removed the bolt, but before moving the hose.


Next, push in the four pins on the top engine cover and remove it from the engine compartment. Look on the black plastic cover over the valve cover and remove the two square bolt covers with a flat head screwdriver, then remove the two 10mm bolts, and remove the cover to expose the ignition coils. Remove the two 10mm bolts on each coil, unplug them, and remove them. They're all the same and don't need to be kept in order of removal.


Next you'll have to remove the positive jump start post. Open the cap and you'll see two T25 screws. Remove them and the battery post comes right off. Move it out of the way. I hooked mine around the power steering resevior to keep it out of my way.


Now you'll have to remove all 11 bolts from around the valve cover. Make sure to save the metal washer for each bolt. The black grommets stay with the valve cover. There's only one bolt that doesn't have a washer, which is pictured below. Note it's location for reassembly. All bolts are 10mm. The 3/4 ratchet comes in hady for the far back bottom bolt (closest to the firewall), as the deep well won't fit because of the strut tower.


Once all 11 bolts and washers are removed, pull the valve cover up and slightly to the rear of the vehicle. You'll need to at least clear the three studs in front where the cover bolts to the timing cover. Once you have the valve cover pulled away, begin removing the 6 upper timing cover bolts. The bolts are all different, so be sure to mark where the bolts go for reassembly. I found it useful to start from the upper left of the timing cover, and remove the bolts, putting them in a line, and start at the same spot when I reassembled. The far bottom innermost bolt will be blocked by the radiator hose. There's no need to remove the hose. Use your wrench to loosen this bolt and just leave it in once loosened. Be careful not to let it fall when removing the timing cover. The pic below shows the bolt loosened, but still in.


With all the bolts out, you can grab the timing cover and pull it away from the engine. Peel out the old gasket, clean the timing cover very well. Some people may like to sand blast it while others will just throw it in a parts washer. Just make sure it's thoroughly cleaned. Also clean the timing case where the cover bolts onto.


It's easy to see from this picture why my timing covers were leaking so much oil. This happened as a result of removing the old gaskets from the cover. They were so brittle they came out in several pieces.


Install your new gasket, and reassembly is the opposite of disassembly.

Passenger's side

This side is a little more tricky. Remove the MAF, the rubber intake boot, the silencer below the intake boot, and the air box. You'll see a bracket, a cam sensor, and your oil dipstick tube all bolted to the timing cover. The bracket bolts and dipstick bolt are 10mm. I'm not sure what size hex the cam sensor bolt is, as I just pull out a few hex keys and found one that worked. Remove all these components from the timing cover. In the photo, the dipstick bolt is hidden by the wiring harness. (Note, I didn't remove my airbox until later, but it's necessary to do).


Here's a photo with everything removed and out of the way. You can also see just how bad my oil leak was.


Follow the same steps as the left side for removing the black plastic cover and ignition coils. When you're removing the valve cover bolts, I found it easier to remove the OBD port and set it aside. There's a plastic clip that you can press with your thumb to remove it from it's mount, and just set it aside out of the way. Please excuse the blurry picture.


The far back bottom valve cover bolt will require your wrench, as it's too narrow a space for the ratchet. Remove the rest of the valve cover bolts and washers, and pull the valve cover up and back to clear the timing cover studs. Once this is done, remove all 6 timing cover bolts (keeping them in order). You're not quite ready to remove the timing cover yet, unlike the other side.

There's a timing chain tensioner that you'll have to relieve before you can remove the timing cover. I don't have a good photo of it, but if you feel just around the side of the cover near the circled area, you'll feel the bolt for it. Use your 16mm deep well to remove the bolt. Next remove the stud directly behind the bolt. This will relieve the tension, and you can now remove the timing cover. Follow the same steps for replacing the gasket.


When reinstalling the timing cover, be sure to reposition the timing chain tensioner. Install the pin that you took out and reinstall the bolt. Now reassembly is the opposite of removal.

Be careful when reinstall your valve cover bolts that you don't over tighten them. I over tightend one when I did my valve cover gaskets, and when I tried to remove it to do this job, the whole stud came out. No biggie, I just reinstalled the stud back into the timing cover, but it was just added work. Be careful of this.

Hover over an image to enlarge thumbnail...

Colin@HID Solutions Moorpark, CA
99 E38 740iL Silver on Grey leather, 18" Style 94 wheels, lighted handles, self leveling xenons, Nav Retro fit, MK3 16:9 Widescreen. DP03998 12/1998 production
95 E38 740iL Oxford Metallic Green on Black leather, Fresh Paint, 01 Face lift, M-Sport Steering wheel, M-sport seats, Alpina front spoiler air damn, Alpina Softline 20" rims 20x9 front 20x10 rear, 6000k HID's, 8000k HID Fogs, smoked tails, quad brake light mod, 20% tint all around, PIAA Yellow Hi-beams, 01 Headlights, 750 grills, HR Drop Springs, Monroe Struts, Strong Strut, CCFL Angel eyes, 4 pos euro foglight switch, euro front plate base, euro Germany front and rear license plate and brackets, 16:9 Widescreen Navigation, MK4, BM43, PIE Audio and Video iPod integration, PIE Aux Nav interface, Backup camera, gauge rings, CF cluster bezel, steel sunroof to glass retrofit 750iL Door panels, 750iL B-Pillar panels, 750il Wood interior lights, 750iL wood trim full leather front seats backs, BMWNA goodwill cluster, SES Voice Control Module retrofit, trunk spoiler. DH33278 5/1995 production
07 Dodge Ram 3500HD, 6.7L Cummins Turbo Diesel, 6 speed manual, Hypertech Max Energy programmer on stage 3 (129hp gain), Diesel emissions waiting to fall off, straight pipe comming soon, 5000k HID headlights and fog lights, V1 hardwired.
02 Harley Davidson custom build chopper, S&S Super 100ci, rev-tec 6 speed trans, Corbin seat, billet wheels, streached tank and frame
87 Pontiac TransAm, Tuned Port Injected 305, Auto, B&M Shifter, 99 TransAm Leather seats.
03 Honda CBR 600RR, Yoshi pipe, fender eliminator kit, 6000k HID kit, 3800 miles (SOLD)
03 Honda XR50, Yamaha plastics and sticker kit, big bore 88cc kit
00 Kawasaki KX500 2 stroke, WER steering dampener, FMF pipe, acerbis lever gards, protaper bars, desert tank
99 Yamaha R1, full show bike(SOLD)
91 E32 735iL (SOLD)
00 Cadillac DeVille (SOLD)
99 Ford Ranger XLT (SOLD)
96 Ford F-250 Power Stroke Turbo Diesel (SOLD)
97 Camaro Z-28, LT1 V8, T56 6 Speed manual (SOLD)
95 Cadillac DeVille Concorus (SOLD)
69 Chevelle 300 Deluxe (SOLD)
69 Lincoln Continental Mark III (SOLD)
97 Lincoln Mark VIII (SOLD)
96 Chevrollet Impala SS (SOLD)

• DIY: Upper timing cover gaskets (pic) (url) - 04sshd 2008-12-29 17:18:58 (10326 views)
  • Tips for success - caseyjamesbrown 2011-01-23 18:02:38 (379 views)
  • Re: DIY: Upper timing cover gaskets - caseyjamesbrown 2011-01-18 08:30:15 (352 views)
  • Very nice! Woulld you say it would be possible to replace the timing chain - Stu 2008-12-30 19:08:48 (388 views)
    • Timing chain guides require the lower timing cover to be removed (nt) - bsnedeker 2008-12-31 09:21:06 (464 views)
  • Good work Colin (nt) - rg0115 2008-12-30 17:07:41 (237 views)
    • wasn't me, I just reposted here for someone on BF.C (nt) - 04sshd 2008-12-30 17:09:04 (269 views)
  • e38.org material! Great job (nt) - 740isport 2008-12-29 21:55:03 (253 views)
    • +1 (nt) - Stu 2008-12-30 19:09:23 (187 views)
  • Nice job. Bookmarked for when my 95 needs it! (nt) - RobinK 2008-12-29 17:37:53 (210 views)
  • Great info! A bit different with a face lift, bit harder but doable (nt) - Edwin™ 2008-12-29 17:33:46 (255 views)