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Subject: Steptronic Shifter Upgrade / Retrofit - instructions for a 2000 740iL Author: eaglecomm : member since March, 2006 : 3778 posts Posted on: 2008-09-30 18:40:26

These are the directions to retrofit/upgrade your non-Sport non-Steptronic MY 1999-2001 740iL.
You may also want to download the .pdf version of this thread in case any pictures don't work in the future. You can download it here.

These directions or some derivation thereof may allow another model to follow these steps and complete this upgrade, but everything you attempt to do to ANY car based on these directions are AT YOUR OWN RISK understanding I have no technical, electrical or mechanic expertise and can barely change a light bulb without a manual.
These directions are NOT to be sold or copied without express written permission of the site administrator of Bimmerboard.com, currently David Cecil.

There… now that that’s over.. let’s get to the good stuff.

Before I continue I must thank both Silber98 and Wilbcol, whose posts and direct emails from Terance especially, helped me decide to move forward with this upgrade. Hopefully their posts, which I will reference below, as well as this post will encourage you to do the same…. cause man it ROCKS!

Before you begin, there is a section below that requires you to get under the car and disconnect a cable from the transmission. Make sure you are prepared for this prior to taking apart your interior, disconnecting your battery and/or undoing your shifter components. I just parked the 7 in the garage to start with and when I was ready I jacked up the front left side and put it up on jack stands. Just an FYI before you get too far.

NOTE: This is for a Left-Hand Drive (LHD) configuration 740iL so when I refer to the passenger’s side of the car, it is the right side of the car if you were looking from the back of the car. I also make reference to LHD in the steps below when I reference the passenger side, where necessary.

The following list of parts were required for me to upgrade to Steptronic:

- Steptronic shifter (physical metal shifter) including 2 metal cables extending from the shifter in which 1 cable goes to the transmission through the floor and 1 goes to the steering wheel for the park/shift lock. If your shifter did not come with these, you can re-use the park-lock cable, but I believe the transmission cable should be more permanent. Not sure as my shifter came with both.

- Leather shifter boot including lighted gear shift selector plate

- Either a Sport model Transmission Control Module (EGS) or have the dealer code yours. I chose to keep my original module in case I need to go back to non-Steptronic for some reason in the future. If you need the dealer to code yours, they need ‘numbers’ from a Steptronic EGS to code it. I am unsure about this part because I got a used EGS from a Sport, but there is a chance the dealer may be able to code your Module just from their computer or with a Module from a Sport. I received a SES (Service Engine Soon) upon hooking up the battery, probably due to connecting the Sport EGS to my system, but after it was reset (thanks Autozone) it hasn’t come back on since. I have heard that it would ultimately still be good to have the module coded to tell the rest of my car that I have Steptronic, but it doesn’t seem to hurt the car or the driving as-is.

- My used Steptronic shifter came with the plugs that are needed to get it hooked up properly. What this means is that there are plugs/connectors coming out of the shifter assembly that plug in to the wire looms of the car using the plug connectors. With my standard wire loom, the connections to the car are different since I don’t have a Steptronic/Sport model. Luckily the shifter I bought had both the out connectors and the ‘in connectors’. If your new-used Steptronic shifter does not, you will need an additional x1561 4-pin plug and an additional x1600 3-pin plug. I was confused at first because there were only 2 wires in the 3-pin connector so I thought it was a 2-pin connector. It is a 3-pin connector. One ‘bay’ is just not used. There are pictures of these connectors in the wiring section below.

- You must run 1 new wire from the EGS (Transmission Control Module) to the shifter and if you don’t have any extra metal pin wires lying around, you will need a few metal plug connectors to insert in to the plastic connectors mentioned below. I had a few lying around from other projects and they had wiring already connected to them that I soldered and shrink-wrapped to the newly run wire. A picture of this metal connector I refer to is in the wiring section steps.

To start, please read through the post from Silber98 outlining a few things that he and Wilbcol discussed. I will be going over it as well, just want you to know where all this started.

First things first, take apart the center console. For me, this included the leather center console that goes down between the front seats as well as the radio console. The reason I took apart the radio console is so that I could fish the park lock cable below the cupholder and obd port. If you can pull the leather center console and fish the cable without pulling the radio console, kudos to you. It’s worth a try. Since I didn’t know any better I pulled it all. So I don’t know if it is possible to run that cable without lifting that area slightly/briefly.

Since I don’t want to re-invent the wheel, here are the posts I used to pull the center console and the center radio console.

Removal of center console between the front seats

Removal of center radio console (and some dash and glove box trim as well)

Once you have done that, you should be about here:

There are 3 bolts holding down the shifter to the center tunnel. Remove any wiring attached to the shifter plates (base and lit area) and either label those or remember which ones go to the shifter. They are pretty easy to recognize and you will be working with them quite a bit after the shifter is in.






Once the shifter bolts are out, you need to remove the plastic trim from under the steering wheel (one plastic screw underneath). I was also checking on some other wiring and removed the leatherish trim by your knees. 5 (I think) regular screws attaching the trim to the dash (behind the wood trim). You should have already pulled the wood trim to the right of the steering wheel (for LHD) and the left wood trim just pops off to reveal the other 3. Be care not to pull the wood too hard as for mine there is the dash lighting scroll button and wiring attached to the wood trim. The other part attached to that trim is the Emergency Brake release handle. The wire latch attached to the back of the handle needs to be removed if you are removing this leather trim. Getting it off wasn’t so bad, but putting it back on ‘blind’ was a bear. Several choice words and 30 minutes later, the wire cable was back on.

Once the trim is out of the way, remove the park-lock cable from behind the key tumbler and lay it on the floor. Box wrench should do the trick (sorry don’t remember the size, somewhere between 10-13mm). After you unhook the transmission cable (next step) you will be able to lift out the shifter which will allow you to feed the park-lock cable out at the same time. No need to do that yet though.

Here is a picture of the park-lock cable connected behind the key tumbler.






Park lock cable unhooked from behind the tumbler.






Next bit of work is done under the car. The transmission shifter cable goes through the floor as pictured below and pops out above the rear of the transmission.

Here is the hole in the floor where the transmission cable is routed.



It comes down to the left of the transmission as attaches to the transmission. You should not need to undo any shielding under the car to get to the cable. Undo the ‘hold-bolt’ for the end of the cable as well as the 2 10mm (I think) bolts that hold the neutral switch to the cable. You should be able to remove just the cable when it’s loose and you should be able to pull the cable all the way through as you pull the shifter out.

Be careful to watch the park-lock cable as it gets fished out of the steering console and then out from under the center of the dash. My cable was held in place by 2 rubber ‘holders’ along the way that you will want to fish it back through to keep it out of the way of anything while driving. Just keep an eye on it as you pull it out so you can fish it back through correctly.

Tadaaaaaaa! Now the old shifter is out! Time to put the new shifter in! It doesn’t hurt to give your old shifter a pat on the back as it has probably served you well these last few years.

Snake the transmission cable back through the floor and then snake the park-lock cable back under the radio console, next to the gas pedal, up and in to the back of the key mechanism. Tighten the park-lock cable in to the hole behind the tumbler.

One item to note in my experience (which really scared me at first). After I fished the park-lock cable and secured it to the key tumbler, I tested the shifter after turning the key to unlock park and I couldn’t move the shifter at all. Turns out the park-lock cable length wasn’t engaging the key tumbler properly. Instead of doing much testing at first, I just swapped out my park-lock cable from the steptronic shifter to my old shifter. They seemed identical and with mine in it worked perfectly. After I played with the cable a little once I got it out I realized what had happened. The cable is a spring assisted cable and at the area where it connects to the shifter, there is a plate that holds the cable to the shifter. When I loosened the plate, it freed up the cable a little and there was more play in the ‘male end’ that sticks out and allows the shifter to move. So in the end, the original steptronic cable would have worked fine, it just needed to be loosened for a second to fully extend and then tightened down again. But if you remove the cable and play around with it, this paragraph will make a little more sense. Just hard to explain in words. Here is a shot at where the 2 cables enter the shifter.






For the transmission cable, it is very easy to just fish it through the hole in the floor, bring it down to the left of the transmission, slide it through the necessary areas and reconnect it. Remember to tighten down the 2 small bolts holding the cable to the side of the transmission if you loosened them.

Last but not least, tighten down the 3 bolts that hold the shifter to the center tunnel.

WIRING SECTION:

Now comes the part that the wilbcol/silber98 post helped me with. Though even with the information they gave, it took me 3 hours to go to through the WDS, the Bentley manual and writing down all the steps, wire to wire connection and the colors of the wires to feel confident I was connecting the right ones. Even with this instruction list, you may want to do the same. Up to you though. I expect your color schemes (wires) to be the same as mine if they are the same MY or at least a 99-01. Please double-check though as the wiring is kind of important.

NOTE: To attempt to keep you from being confused which plugs/connections I am referring to, I will either label them SS for ‘shifter spawned’ meaning they originate at the shifter or WL for ‘wire loom’ meaning they come from the wire loom of the car. The 3-pin x1600 connector doesn’t really originate from either, so I have left the designation off for that connector.

There is a 2-pin black WL plug that attached to the old shifter and it does not need to be modified to connect to the new steptronic shifter. It plugs in to the shifter at the very front near where the park-lock cable comes out.

There is a square 6-pin WL black plug that attached to the old shifter and it does not need to be modified to connect to the new steptronic shifter. A note about this plug is that it incorporates a duplicate gear indicator light wire that allows your new shifter to light up without having to reconnect your old gear indicator light from another pin. I will speak to this later.

There are 2 SS plugs that attach the base of the shifter to the plastic gear indicator plate that are 1 to 1 matches. There are no changes to these 2 plugs.

What you are left with after all of those connections is a 6-pin flat WL plug which needs to be changed in to a 4-pin connector so that it can plug in to a 4-pin SS plug. This is where you either need the other end of the plug to be with your new-to-you used steptronic shifter or you need to purchase a new connector. There is also another 3-pin plug that needs to be connected to a 3-pin SS connector as I will discuss through this section. The plug numbers as referenced in the WDS are the 4-pin x1561 and the 3-pin x1600. If these did not come with your new used steptronic shifter, you will need to purchase these.

A quick legend for color combinations.

BL=Blue, BR=Brown, GE=Yellow, GN=Green, GR=Gray, RT=Red, SW=Black, WS=White and VI=Violet.

The 6-pin flat WL connector should have 4 wires in it. The 4 wires I had were GE/WS, GE/BL, BR/SW and GR/RT.

The GE/WS and GE/BL are the wires that run to the Transmission Control Module (EGS) and will run the signal for the +/- of the new steptronic.

The BR/SW is a ground wire and will connect to a ground wire in the new plug.

The GR/RT is the gear indicator light module wir. I pulled this out of the plug and wrapped it in electrical tape as it has no home in the new wiring. As I said earlier, since the light module wiring for the new shifter receives the light signal from the square WL 6-pin connector, this extra wire is no longer needed. So I just wrapped it up (no need to cut it or anything) and laid it down by itself unconnected.

You will pull all 4 of the wires out of the 6-pin flat WL connector including their metal contact plug as 3 of them  will be re-inserted in to the new 4-pin connector. You can discard the 6-pin flat connector.

Here is a picture of the SQUARE 6-pin connector and the x1561 connector:






The new 4-pin x1561 connector will receive 3 of those wires as I mentioned before as well as a 4th wire that will come from the x1600 3-pin connector I spoke about earlier.

Since you need the 4th wire for the new 4-pin x1561 connector, let’s talk about the steps for running this wire. The 4th wire for the 4-pin x1561 connector comes from one of the 2 wires that comes out of the 3-pin x1600 connector.

The 2 wires for this x1600 connector are WS/BL and WS/GN assuming you received the standard wiring from the Steptronic shifter. Otherwise they are whatever color you made them. J The WS/GN wire should connect to the 4th pin of the 4-pin x1561 connector. I will discuss the pin-location of the wires in to the 4-pin x1561 at a later section. The WS/BL wire is soldered/connected to the new wire you are running to the EGS in the E-box. The information below details out the steps to run this wire.



Here is a picture of the x1600 connector (with a closeup afterwards)

This next picture shows the WS/BL from the x1600 connector that is getting ready to be connected to the red wire which I ran to the EGS.



If you have done any wiring in the past on your car, you may have a route through the firewall (the metal wall between the cabin and the engine behind the carpet where you put your feet) that you like best. I had already run some wiring through an area on the passengers firewall (photo below) so I decided to reuse that area for this wire.

Here is a picture of the route I took in the passengers (LHD) footwell area.






You will need to connect this wire in to the ‘E-Box’ on the passenger’s side (LHD) so it was easiest for me to route this along the wiring loom to the right side of the radio console and then under the dash to the area at the top right of the passengers footwell. This grommet pops through the firewall exactly below the E-Box and allows an easy path to the EGS/TCM. Run your wire from the shifter to the footwell, through the firewall and up to the top of the e-box. Make sure you have enough to work with.

Here is a picture of the new Sport EGS. Note that my old and this new EGS have the VIN # on the sticker. Just FYI.






Now that we have the wiring available at the e-box, we will go ahead and do the required work with the transmission control module. You need to pop the hood and remove the 4 torx bolts from the top of the ebox. Remove the lid to the ebox and fish the new wire to the top of the ebox. The EGS/TCM is a silver box with a blue section on the top with 3 connectors attached to it.

The EGS placement is outlined in the picture below.

To remove these connectors, it is the typical BMW connection where you depress a small tab behind the black bar and slide the black bar backwards as it is pushes out the connector. Then slide the connector fully out. Don’t worry, the 3 connections are size-keyed so you can’t mix them up. At this stage, if you are planning NOT to change out the EGS/TCM, you can just remove the 2 connections on the left. I had to remove the farthest left connection to make room to remove the middle one. The middle connection is the one we want to work with.

IF you are changing out your EGS, it is a piece of cake to remove. There is a metal pressure tab on each side of the EGS that holds it in place. These are pressure tabs that just hold it in place snugly. To remove, just get a good grip on both sides and slide up. You may have to wiggle it a bit to get it free, but mine had no screws holding it in at all. The replacement EGS just slides back in place. I did have to press a little more firmly to get it back in.

Now for the wire changes. The middle plug must be disassembled so that 2 wires can be relocated and your new wire can be added. Understand that for your new wire to connect to this plug, you must have connected a typical BMW metal plug as shown below.

To disassemble the set of pins you need to access, expand a small tab on the side and slide out the right pin strip.



The strip is numbered on both sides, so make sure you get the correct numbers and pull the correct wires. You want to remove the wires from pin 9 and 10 and insert them in to pin 19 and 20 respectively. This will give you the standard shifting motion of push forward on the shifter to shift up (1st to 2nd) and pull back on the shifter to shift down. If you pulled out the wires and got confused which wire was which, pin 9 is GE/WS and pin 10 is GE/BL.

NOTE: For those of you that would prefer that the ‘pull back’ on the steptronic shifter increases the gear you are going in to (pull back takes you from 1st to 2nd etc), then you must switch the wires as such. The wire from pin 9 needs to go to pin 20 and the wire from pin 10 needs to go to pin 19. The alternative is to swap the wires at the shifter so this is up to you. I was already in there when I thought of it so I changed it at the EGS.

After you have inserted those 2 wires, the new wire that you ran through the firewall needs to be inserted in to pin 18. Remember, the plastic strip is numbered in tiny numbers at the end of both sides.

Now that the plug is connected with all the wires in their proper pin, re-insert the bright blue connectors in to the Module and close up the E-Box.

Back at the shifter, you must complete the wiring of the 4-pin connector and the 3-pin connector.

The single run wire that you just ran through the firewall should connect in to the x1600 connector (or get soldered to the WS/BL wire already coming out of the connector). If you are looking at the 3-pin plug as if the contacts of the plug are showing through the ‘front’ of the plug (the pic below displays my idea of ‘front’ and ‘back’), the newly run wire connected to the EGS goes to pin 3 which is the farthest right socket. The other wire, which is WS/GN is in pin 1 which is the farthest left socket. The middle socket will stay empty.

This means 1 wire is now connected (goes to EGS) and the second wire coming out of the x1600 needs to be connected to the 4th pin of the x1561 connector.






You should have 4 wires that will be inserted in to the new x1561 4-pin connector. The wires are BR/SW, GE/BL, GE/WS (from the old 6-pin flat WL connector) and your new wire from the x1600 connector. The wires should go in as follows. If you are looking at the 4-pin plug as if the contacts of the plug are showing through the ‘front’ of the plug, from left to right you would insert the wires as BR/SW, GE/BL, GE/WS and your new wire from the x1600 (would be WS/GN if stock) goes in the right-most spot.

Once you have completed all these wire changes, you are ready to reconnect the new connectors to their proper mate (they all fit in only one place). Remember the old flat 6-pin WL Connector is no longer going to be used ( I said discard it earlier) and you will have 1 additional electrical taped wire which was the unused duplicate light module wire that will just lay under the console when you are finished.

At this point you are done with the hard part, but one of the hardest parts is still yet to come. What could that be you ask??! Taking the time to put it back together when what you really want to do is get on the road and drive this puppy!! One thing you may want to do at this point is to make sure everything is connected, put the boot on top of the shifter and make sure the steptronic is working.

Assuming you don’t have any other important items unconnected (like an airbag sensor for some reason), you should be able to test out if everything works. Connect the battery, turn the car to position 2, click down to D, then over to the +/-. At this point, I have heard that you need to shift one way or the other for it to initialize before it starts working. But since I had changed out my EGS for a Sport EGS, it worked right away for me. I could tell via the numbers in the cluster that when I shifted down to 1st gear, it would light up a 1 in the cluster. I am guessing that is the first time the 1 and the 5 have ever been lit! J It may have to do with coding, but the 1 and the 5 don’t stay semi-lit like the 2, 3 and 4 do all the time. Could just be that my cluster would benefit from the dealer coding and would respond accordingly when the cluster thinks it’s in a sport. For now though, it lights up when I shift in to that gear though which is fine for me.

So what’s left? Well, at this point you still have to sew everything back up after surgery! The install is the reverse of taking it apart and will probably feel like it is taking forever, but you will get there! Once you have finished putting the shifter components back together, putting the center and radio console back together and getting everything hooked up… take her for a spin!

I took it slowly at first on a side street since I wasn’t sure how it would work out. But shortly after I was revving through the gears having a bunch of fun!

So this has been another tale from the TRN$PRTR and I hope you have as much success as I did!

Good Luck and as usual, if you find this helpful at all, MAKE A DONATION TO BIMMERBOARD!

Thanks, Eaglecomm

Final shot after completion (still needs a good cleaning though!)


Key words: steptronic, upgrade, retrofit, EGS, transmission control module, replace, replacement, update, TCM, TCU, ebox, shifter, paddles

Hover over an image... be patient

2000 740iL (9/99 Prod) - Raleigh, NC Jet Black/Black, Steptronic, Michelin Pilot A/S on //MPars, Crystal Corners, Crystal Taillights, Mirror Indicators, Angel Eyes, 16:9 Widescreen, MKIII, Front/Rear Heated Seats, Xenons, TV with In-Motion, Lyra RCA to play movies and MP3s concealed in the ashtray, Alpine headrest monitors, AVIR-4 A/V Controller with IR Remote, ValentineOne, StealthOne, Escort ZR3 Laser Shifter, RevHigh CAI, Wolf Whistle Siren, Aluminum ///M pedals, Quad Brake Lights, 20% tint, Bluetooth!! My other rides are a '71 Ford F-100 Custom, a '67 Austin Mini (848cc) and an '05 Odyssey Touring for the Mrs (though she prefers to ride in style in the 7). Previous vehicles owned (none wrecked): '74 VW Bug, '72 VW Bug, VW CamperVan, VW Karmann Ghia, '85 Toyota Truck, '86 Toyota 4Runner, '88 Toyota 4Runner, '86.5 Toyota Supra, '95 Acura Integra, '96 Acura TL 3.2, '01 Lexus IS300, '02 BMW 330Ci, '03 Toyota Tundra, '96 Honda Magna (750cc), '05 Suzuki Katana (750cc), and a '70 VW Bug. How about Donating to BimmerBoard? Use and add to the E38.org WIKI!!!

• Steptronic Shifter Upgrade / Retrofit - instructions for a 2000 740iL (pic) (url) - eaglecomm 2008-09-30 18:40:26 (4107 views)
  • Dude I declare you King of the board! Until Edwin does his next mod. (nt) - rme 2008-10-01 18:42:29 (98 views)
    • Magnum might beg to differ. :o) (nt) - bghark 2008-10-01 19:15:45 (90 views)
      • +1.............. (nt) - beechy 2008-10-01 19:46:59 (75 views)
      • He can beg.. but it's MINE.. all MINE!! mmmwwaaahahahahaaaa (nt) - eaglecomm 2008-10-01 19:46:33 (80 views)
        • Re: He can beg.. but it's MINE.. all MINE!! mmmwwaaahahahahaaaa (url) - artrix 2008-10-01 20:27:21 (104 views)
          • I really like your signature pic...reminds me of eyes in the forest (nt) - sdmike 2008-10-02 00:00:34 (74 views)
  • Re: Steptronic Shifter Upgrade / Retrofit - instructions for a 2000 740iL (url) - artrix 2008-10-01 18:12:53 (127 views)
    • Grey, is this true? is this really your mom?? And she also owns a Seven? Cool!! (nt) - larryd740il 2008-10-01 19:16:13 (76 views)
      • So true! Plus she got her 7 a coupla months before I got mine! - eaglecomm 2008-10-01 19:45:58 (63 views)
        • That is really neat, my mom drives a big ole Lincoln town car, she is 84 - larryd740il 2008-10-01 21:22:50 (75 views)
        • Re: So true! Plus she got her 7 a coupla months before I got mine! (url) - artrix 2008-10-01 20:38:11 (72 views)
    • Re: Steptronic Shifter Upgrade / Retrofit - instructions for a 2000 740iL - artrix 2008-10-01 18:26:36 (99 views)
  • Congrats, super job and great writeup - Shled 2008-10-01 15:06:06 (75 views)
    • Yes, unfortunately the writeup is usually 90% from memory. - eaglecomm 2008-10-01 17:13:31 (67 views)
  • Great Job ! Time to look for parts ! (nt) - Krazy D 2008-10-01 14:58:43 (70 views)
    • Scuba Steve has a Sport EGS for sale now actually on ebay! (nt) - eaglecomm 2008-10-01 19:47:59 (96 views)
  • Wow! That is fantastic! Now go clean your console! :o) - bghark 2008-10-01 14:34:15 (73 views)
  • Very impressive. (nt) - RobinK 2008-10-01 14:23:29 (70 views)
  • Brilliant........;o) (nt) - beechy 2008-10-01 14:10:44 (74 views)
  • Simply Awesome! I wish I could have had a chance to do this mod to my '00. - absessler 2008-10-01 13:58:53 (66 views)
  • Re: Steptronic Shifter Upgrade / Retrofit - instructions for a 2000 740iL - silber98 2008-10-01 10:51:52 (83 views)
    • T where have you been??? (nt) - HighLine740iL 2008-10-01 13:22:11 (73 views)
    • Anytime! Thanks for the inspiration! (nt) - eaglecomm 2008-10-01 13:00:59 (72 views)
  • Question re Sport Mode - when you move it to the steptronic gate, but don't .... - JohnG 2008-10-01 10:16:19 (115 views)
    • Steptronic display is slightly different...it says ''D S'' when the lever is (pic) - Q 2008-10-01 19:46:34 (161 views)
      • Ahh, DS not D5. When in sport mode, is 5th locked out? - JohnG 2008-10-01 23:14:45 (93 views)
        • My experience with Steptronic in my e39 is that it has remained in 4th gear..but - Q 2008-10-01 23:57:18 (78 views)
    • I am not sure.. will check when I drive it next. - eaglecomm 2008-10-01 13:00:34 (64 views)
  • Awesome work! This is going on e38.org pronto! (nt) - DavidC 2008-10-01 02:09:18 (73 views)
  • Nice now just get it coded ;-) j/k Awsome job bro! (nt) - Edwin 2008-10-01 01:26:04 (72 views)
  • Very Cool!!!! How much do you charge per install? Nice attn to detail w/pics (nt) - HighLine740iL 2008-09-30 23:55:14 (82 views)
    • Just bring it over! Any time working on the 7 is fun for me! (nt) - eaglecomm 2008-10-01 00:05:30 (86 views)
  • Couple things.. I had read that the EGS modules are identical for non-steptronic - ian 2008-09-30 23:54:49 (86 views)
    • Here was my experience. - eaglecomm 2008-10-01 00:13:59 (125 views)
  • Excellent write up! Do I see another mod write up coming?? Start/stop button. (nt) - mahmudb 2008-09-30 21:46:41 (81 views)
    • Hehehe.. I was wondering if anyone would see that. - eaglecomm 2008-09-30 21:52:32 (80 views)
  • I need bring my car to Raleigh. I feel STOCK. lol. - 740ilDuke 2008-09-30 21:44:24 (72 views)
    • Hehehe.. yeah, we need to get together! I think the NE trip is not gonna happen - eaglecomm 2008-09-30 21:51:14 (75 views)
      • Owww please dude come on put some steptronic miles on that baby! (nt) - Edwin 2008-10-01 01:32:51 (76 views)
  • I am impressed, great write up and excellent job. I love your Ingenuity (nt) - rg0115 2008-09-30 18:59:33 (72 views)
    • Thanks Robert.. I had a great time figuring it out! (nt) - eaglecomm 2008-09-30 21:30:50 (70 views)
  • Fantastic...JoB!!!...Im glad I dont have to do this..Lots of good research there (pic) - snitch740i 2008-09-30 18:53:40 (157 views)
    • Impressive, very impressive! Great write up - belongs on e38.org..!! (nt) - sealbeach740 2008-09-30 21:34:52 (75 views)
      • Thanks Keith. I was psyched to get it in and running. Heck of a lot of fun too! (nt) - eaglecomm 2008-10-01 00:15:07 (79 views)
      • This goes under eaglecomm's original post, of course. (nt) - sealbeach740 2008-09-30 23:39:13 (81 views)
    • Yes, I have even considered getting the other steering wheel, but..... - eaglecomm 2008-09-30 19:36:50 (81 views)
  • Great write up! So of course I am very curious, what did this retrofit cost you? (nt) - larryd740il 2008-09-30 18:50:38 (72 views)
    • $280 for the shifter + gear selector light plate and $100 for the EGS module - eaglecomm 2008-09-30 19:01:55 (120 views)