So, the car had some rust in all the standard places. Nothing that was all the way through. My buddy, (his car) decided he needed to save it. I take off all the trim, door handles, bumpers and emblems so I am left with essentially a clutter free canvas as it where. I sand all the areas down that need attention. If they had rust I treat that area with a rust preventative/inhibitor. "Just because it looks clean doesn't mean the rust won't come back". Then I pound out all the body damage and dents as straight as possible. Then I smooth all the areas out with body filler.( the less the better). I then sand the car down using a long block,( longer the better). I use varying grits of sandpaper. Starting at 120 to remove old paint, and blemishes. All the way down to 400 for a smooth paintable surface. Long blocks are imperative so you keep your sanding flat and even. If you do it without a block you end up making small ripples and waves in the surface of the car. I then mask and prep the car with a wax and grease remover. It is important to use lint free tack cloths for this or I like to use micro-fiber clothes. Then I paint a "guide coat" of primer which allows you to see any areas you might have missed, dents dings, scratches etc. After that I prime the whole car again. Then I use a sealer which essentially seals the coats below and provides adhesion for those above/following. I will usually lightly sand the sealer coat paying attention not to punch through to the primer coat. Then I spray the base coat or color of the car. Finally, I spray 2-3 coats of clear. I prefer it a little thicker because it helps prevent chipping and you can buff it a little more. I use catalyzed paint/s which means it has hardeners in it that make it more durable to chips and scratching. It's a little more but worth it. Then lastly, I wet sand the car starting with 1000 grit paper going all the way up to 2500 in 500 grit increments. Then I use a multi step buffing process that brings out the shine. It is important to note that wet sanding is essential. It removes the microscopic and not so microscopic " peaks and lows" in the paint for a smooth silky finish.
Well there you have it. My process of painting these wonderful cars.

Just a side note. If you take your car to a professional for this kind of work it will easily cost about 5-6,000. If you are adventurous enough you can learn to do it. It just takes a lot of practice.

Regards

Pouvoir / David S.

1984 745i auto
1985 745i manual conversion
1980 733i manual

• Latest Paint Project (pic) - pouvoir 2008-04-30 19:04:39 (280 views)
  • Re: Latest Paint Project - Hitmanx 2008-05-17 23:52:59 (47 views)
  • Re: Latest Paint Project - zack01gc 2008-05-02 15:05:17 (68 views)
    • Wheels - pouvoir 2008-05-02 17:46:43 (77 views)
  • Very nice- - stevebu 2008-05-02 14:10:10 (74 views)
  • Nice work. Tell us more about how you did it. (nt) - davidc 2008-05-01 03:09:14 (67 views)
    • How I do it. 'long' - pouvoir 2008-05-01 12:05:22 (118 views)
      • Very excellent! - cambridge 2008-05-01 18:57:30 (64 views)
        • Rust proofer - pouvoir 2008-05-01 21:24:59 (80 views)
      • I'd love to learn to how to paint a car. (nt) - davidc 2008-05-01 17:32:35 (64 views)
        • And welding. That's another thing I'd like to learn. (nt) - davidc 2008-05-01 17:33:02 (64 views)
          • nothintoitbuttodoit :) - demet 2008-05-02 21:34:35 (73 views)
            • Re: nothintoitbuttodoit :) - pouvoir 2008-05-03 21:54:03 (75 views)
      • So thats how its done, easy peasy! LOL! - phathome 2008-05-01 14:05:52 (71 views)
        • Man Hours - pouvoir 2008-05-01 14:40:24 (74 views)
  • Very nice! RU in Utah? - Area52 2008-04-30 23:19:26 (78 views)
    • Re: Very nice! - pouvoir 2008-05-01 11:20:47 (86 views)
      • Re: Very nice! - brkngmd 2008-05-17 20:48:15 (47 views)
      • Re: Very nice! - ghw 2008-05-02 17:01:39 (71 views)
        • Paint Brands - pouvoir 2008-05-02 17:49:48 (74 views)