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OEM Bimmer Parts

This message is marked as Important.
Subject: Eric, I fixed your MID from Peter. Writeup of E38 MID repair
Author: visionbmw7 : member since July, 2006 : 3827 posts
Posted on: 2008-03-25 02:14:49

As with all DIY repairs, YOU take full responsibility of your own repairs. If you break it or your car blows up, that's YOUR fault.

I have noticed differences in MID's such as connector type and number of external screws. Otherwise they are pretty much identical. As a resolution to the "case of the missing pixels" purchase between members, I volunteered to repair the MID provided that a donation is made to the board if the buyer is happy.

In the process of repairing the MID, I carelessly cracked the lower left side of the LCD when it was lodged against the frame when I was applying pressure on the floor to remove the side screws. The result was missing the bottom half of the display.



Oops. So I had to salvage the LCD from Tyrone's (cleanride740il's) old MID I repaired earlier this month. Instead of just giving up Tyrone's MID, I decided to repair "Peter's" MID as promised. No big deal since I have 3 of them.

Here it is...

Remove the 4 or 6 external screws. If you need pics of this procedure, then you have no business even opening it up...

Then remove the 2 screws to the bulb assembly.


Unplug all the connectors.





Remove the LCD retainer clips



Slide the bulb assembly up.


Remove the 2 side screws to remove the front assembly/frame. TAKE CARE AND MAKE SURE THE LCD ISN'T WEDGED IN THE FRAME. This is how I cracked the original LCD.



Remove the pressure clip that holds the ribbon to the board.


Peel the tape.


Carefully peel the ribbon from the LCD side to the tip so that the contacts don't completely rip off rendering it useless.


Just like the instrument cluster, you'll notice the pressure indentations/wear on the pad.


Peel the pad off and flip it to get a fresh side without indentations.


Clean the board and ribbon contacts with acetone and Qtips. The glue will dissolve quicker if you apply a lot of acetone.



Align the ribbon contacts to the board contacts and apply tape. Check the alignment after applying the tape.


Flip the board around and apply tape to the ribbon. Make sure the ribbon mates to the very tip of the board to get full contact by pulling down on the tape while affixing it. Sorry no pic.

Start on one side and replace the pressure clip. Be sure that the pad meets at the very tip of the board. This is important since this is where the salvaged contacts are.



As you continued to replace the clip, with your fingernail, tuck the pad in working from the middle out so the pad doesn't stretch. How do you think I know this?


This is what it looks like, but we're not done yet.


In order to ensure full contact, use a credit card or something similar to tuck the pad in all the way.


Now we're done.


Test the MID before replacing everything else.





Enjoy the pixels!!!



Cliff




95 740iL w/SLS, Chrome Staggered M-Pars, 750 wooden B pillars, 750 C pillar and dome wooden lights, non-DSP to DSP Nav retrofit 4:3, MKII, C43 radio module, standard Phillips DSP amp, rear electric shade retrofit (nav parts & shade transplanted from my former 96). Future Mods: Shadowline.

97 540i/6, UUC short shift, DINAN 3.15 diff, sport springs, M Sport steering wheel, M-Pars, non-DSP to DSP Nav retrofit 16:9 w/custom in-dash DVD player/MKIII Nav/C43 radio module/Hybrid Loewe amp, CCFL Angel Eyes, LED exterior door handles, 360 clears, glow gauges, Lo-Jack, Air-Trak real-time vehicle tracker, Kicker amp, Kenwood sub through ski hole.



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