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This message is marked as Important.
Subject: Trailing Arm Bushings - 20 Tons is not enough
Author: erwin : member since November, 2007 : 664 posts
Posted on: 2008-03-24 01:34:20

A 20 ton press is not enough to remove or install rear trailing arm bushings. To be fair, I probably didn't get a full 20 tons on it since I only had a 12 ton press, and it couldn't handle the full 20 ton load.

Ok, let me back up a little. I'm in the process of rebuilding the rear subframe in my 750iL. This includes all new bushings and other stuff "while I'm there". Knowing there were about 9 bushings to R&R, I decided it was high time to get myself a hydraulic press. The only one I could find locally used (through Craigslist) was a little 12-ton job, which I got for $100. This worked fine for the subframe "bear cans" and the three differential carrier bushings.

But the trailing arms? No way, not even close. So I went to Lowes and got a 20 ton jack on sale for $50. Turns out, the 12 ton press frame gets bent out of shape when you put a 20 ton load on it.

A big problem with the little press was that I couldn't fit the trailing arm inside the frame, which meant I couldn't properly press on the bushing with a support directly under the same end of the trailing arm. Instead, I had to put the other end of the trailing arm on the bottom plate, and I placed the 12 ton jack, under pressure, in between the two ends to keep the trailing arm from collapsing under the load. Here's the setup I ended up with:


But as I said, once I cranked down with the 20 ton jack, the press frame started to get tweaked out of shape, and the bushing didn't budge. Heat didn't help.

What did help was a hole saw and a hack saw - yep cutting was the answer.

Start by cutting off the rubber boot with a knife


Use a 1 1/2 inch hole saw, and start cutting a little. You'll run into a metal ring pretty soon, stop to take it out.


Now you can cut into the rubber.


You can't go all the way with this hole saw, finish the job by cutting from the other side.


Here's the center of the bushing cut out. Yes, this makes a mess.


BTW: wanna know how strong that rubber is? When it became clear cutting out the centers was my only option, I tried to just rip out the center with the press. I applied all the force I could until the frame started bending, and the center did some major movement down. I thought is was coming out, but when I let off the pressure, it snapped back!

Once the centers are out, you can cut the outer sleeve with a hack saw or a sawzall. The trick is to cut through the bushing metal without cutting the trailing arm. It takes patience. If you nick the trailing arm bore, you should file the sharp corners down. I used a chisel to finish getting them out.


I then used a sanding drum on the drill to clean out the trailing arm bores. But when I tried installing a new bushing (using the same setup as the first pic), I could only get it in part way, then it stopped moving and the frame started bending again. Bummer.

So, I'll be taking the arms and bushings to an indy shop to get them on. Well at least I got most of it done myself. In the meantime, I still have my "hydraulic" Craigslist search RSS feed going, maybe a decent-sized press will show up for future jobs :)

Erwin
89 750iL
Lowered (a little)
Engine
Wolf chips
19 lb, 4-hole (Design 3) fuel injectors
PowerFlow Intake Air Filters
Royal Purple 20W-50
In process: Custom Cold Air Boxes
Interior
Phone removed, replaced with cut-to-length dash wood trim on hinge
E38 Shifter Knob, Console Plate, and Boot
M-Tech 2 M-technic Steering Wheel - air bag deleted
E38 Self-Dimming Mirror
Audio
BMW Business CD Player "CD43" Head Unit
Refurbished factory amp w/equalizer
Bass blockers (300hz/4ohm) on stock front kick panel speakers
Rear deck speakers: Alpine SPS-13C2 5.25" 2 way 175 Watt with bass blockers
Subwoofers: 2 JBL GTO804 8" 4-ohm subs
Subwoofer install: custom sealed enclosure mounted behind ski bag opening
Subwoofer amp: Alpine MRP-M450 400w MONO
CD changer relocated to driver's door bottom pocket actuated by bio-
mechanical arm controlled by semi-intelligent nut behind the wheel
Suspension
H&R Lowering Springs (1/2 coil removed from fronts)
Koni adjustable front shocks
Stock rear shocks (self leveling)
Racing Dynamics Stress Bar
Stock front sway bar
Dinan rear sway bar - 21mm
M5 aluminum lower control arms

Front tires: 245-40-18 Goodyear Eagle F1 GS-D3 on 8.5" EuroTech rims
Rear tires: 275-40-18 Michelin Pilot Sport PS1 on 9.5" EuroTech rims
Exterior
25% Side tint
5% Rear tint
BMW Mud flaps - rears trimmed to tire width
Rear fender lips rolled
Smoked side markers
Zymol wax
Way too many paint chips touched up
Brakes
Front Rotors: 850CSi, 324 X 30 mm, cross-drilled and slotted
Rear Rotors: stock size, cross-drilled and slotted
Pads: Hawk Performance Ceramic (may switch to HPS)
Stainless steel lines
Racing Blue brake fluid


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