Home | 7 Series E38 Forum | Post New Message | Search | Contact Moderator | Sign In  












Click to make a donation to support BimmerBoard
Related Links
E38.org
BMW CCA
Indy Mechanics
Frappr Map
E38 Lounge
E38.org Wiki
Specialty Forums
Garage Forum
Navigation A/V
Bluetooth
For Sale
Want To Buy (NEW)
Off-Topic
Detailing
///M
Kill Stories
Group Buys
Vanos Forum
Meet & Greet
TEST FORUM

Forums for Current Model BMW's
1 Series E81
3 Series E90
5 Series E60
6 Series E63/E64
7 Series E65/E66
7 Series F01/02 NEW
X3 E83
X5 E70
X6 E71
Z4 E85
MINI Cooper

Forums for Past Model BMW's
2002
3 Series E21
3 Series E30
3 Series E36
3 Series E46
5 Series E12
5 Series E28
5 Series E34
5 Series E39
6 Series E24
7 Series E23
7 Series E32
7 Series E38
8 Series E31
X5 E53
Z3
Z8 E52
CS E9
Senior Six E3

Model-specific Lounges
E32 Lounge
E38 Lounge

Regional Forums
Australia
Canada
United Kingdom
Netherlands

Forums for Local BMW Car Clubs
Dallas
Southern California
Minneapolis
Atlanta






Return to the forum index 7 Series E38 Forum

OEM Bimmer Parts

This message is marked as Important.
Subject: I copied and pasted the pertinent info from a prior post of mine.
Author: Magnum : member since January, 2004 : 3968 posts
Posted on: 2008-03-21 22:27:21      
Bookmark and Share

so it may seem out of order but you should get it. I hope everything shows up ok.

-------------------------------------------------------------------
Start

Here are the parts for the new fog light switch:
- 1. = 61 13 0 006 663, direct plug in connector with short wire lead.
- 2. = 61 31 8 363 688, not found in realoem – this is the switch cover.
- 3. = 61 31 8 363 684, not found in realoem – this is the switch.

I’ll break down my DDE wiring now. I ran the wires under the metal frame thing in front of the fan shroud. Basically I fed the passenger side DDE negative to the drivers side, and the driver side DDE positive to the passenger side. Why? Because I will be getting positive form the fuse box and the ground [negative] from the new Euro Fog Light Switch. This wiring was neatly wrapped in some wiring wrapping stuff I found, very nice material:



Here’s how I got my wire to go directly into the fuse box. I didn’t need any tools to fish the wire or anything, the wire simply slid through and directly into the fuse box area. I couldn’t ask for it to be any cleaner:



Then I ran it along the existing wire, you can’t even tell it’s there:



And finally tying the wires together with a nice clump of solder and heat shrink:



Here’s a shot of the positive wire going into the fuse box:



Here’s a shot with the wire in the fuse box soldered, heat shrunk and almost ready to plug in, tape this end with some electrical tape just to make sure it doesn’t touch anything with power. I’m moving on to the new fog light switch:



Here are the parts for the new fog light switch:
- 1. = 61 13 0 006 663, direct plug in connector with short wire lead.
- 2. = 61 31 8 363 688, not found in realoem – this is the switch cover.
- 3. = 61 31 8 363 684, not found in realoem – this is the switch.



So lets start finalizing the DDE hookup. The end result is really cool, you can have just:
- The DDE’s on.
- The DDE’s, Fog Lights, Parking Lights on.
- Or the whole enchilada – The Headlights, DDE’s, Fog Lights and Parking Lights.
- Basically total control with a flick of a switch!

I basically took the negative wire and ran it from the engine compartment to the driver side interior and up to the new switch. Pretty easy task, I’m running my wire up along the fender. You can see my tubing that houses the wires for my ZR3, I’m put the wire in that. I took my passenger side negative wire and my driver side negative wire, twisted them together and the soldered and heat shrink them to my lead that will run into the cabin:



Now we have to fish the wire through here:



Not that easy of a task, only because of space! First you have to get the black plastic cover off, I used an ensemble of fingers, hands, swear words, a screwdriver and needle nose pliers. Once off, I went into the driver side of the car and removed the black cover in the foot well. The foot well cover is very easy to remove, 3 screws about shin area and 2 pull screw near the back. Now that that is out, you have go fishin’. I took a coat hanger and slid it through, MAKE sure you protect the END of the COAT HANGER [I use tape]. I couldn’t get a pic of where the hood release cable goes through because space is very tight, but you should be able to see it. Take the coat hanger with the protected end and push it through, have a helper note where it is trying to poke through the rubber grommet and make a real small slice in the rubber grommet and then carefully push the coat hanger through to expose it [maybe a foot]. The arrow shows the coat hanger:



Next tape the wire to the end of the coat hanger and slowly / carefully pull it into the cabin. Then put the plastic protector back, yep its’ a PITA:



Now lower the steering wheel all the way and adjust it all the way out. Then take out the instrument cluster, there are 2 torx screws [maybe T-15, I forget they’re small] located at the top of the cluster. Lay it on the steering column / cover with a small towel or equivalent under it, this protects the cluster plastic cover from scratches:



Place the cluster like so:



Now take out the old fog light switch. Simply pull off the knob, then get out a big ass socket……..its just plastic nut but boy is it big:



Now pull / fish your wire up and through to finally pull it out of the cluster area, and solder the wires together and heat shrink them:



Now with that removed, you can slide out the old fog light switch. It’s tight but it will just slide out:



Unplug the old switch and figure out how the hell the plug opens up to insert the wire. It ended up just snapping open as you can see here:



Then the factory connector / wire just snaps into place [audible click], and finally close the cover. I gave the new wire a good pull just to make sure it was connected properly:



Now plug the new switch in, slide it back through the dash, get it fit properly, install the new face plate and nut, put the knob back on, re-install the instrument cluster and then put the foot well cover back on:



Now it’s time to get the positive wire for the DDE’s hooked up. Go back to the fuse box.
I used an inline fuse from the positive wire I ran to the fuse tap thing I found at radio shack, I did solder and heat shrink all connections. The fuse tap simply slides over one of the fuse post and then you insert the fuse as normal:



Here it is snaked through the fuse box and plugged in. It’s the red wire:



Here’s what it looks like with the fuse box cover back on:



You're done, full control:



1999 740iL – Valentine One / Stealth One, Escort ZR3 Laser Jammer, Bluetooth w/ Blackberry 8300,
Victor Steering Wheel, Leather / Wood Inlay BMW Shift Knob, Instrument Cluster Gauge Rings,
16:9 Nav. Display, TVonNav, Soundgate AUX 3, 6 Disc DVD/CD/MP3 Changer “In Stereo”,
iPod [40 gig] Hardwired, XM, Backup Camera, 2 12” Rockford Fosgate Subs, Rockford Fosgate Amp,
1 Farad Monster Cap, Custom Enclosure / Trunk Shelf, Style 95’s w/ 245/40/19 F & 285/35/19 R Falken FK-451’s,
Clear Indicators, Tint, Chrome Grills, AC Schnitzer Pedals, M-Style Electronic Folding Mirrors, Xenons,
DDE's w/ Euro Fog Light Switch Activation, HID Fog Lights Brembo X-Drilled w/ Mintex Reds and Super Blue Fluid,
Blue Calipers w/ Silver BMW Decals, Blue Valve Covers



The 7 Series E38 Forum | Message Thread:


This thread is closed to new posts.


Make a donation to support BimmerBoard


Home | Privacy Policy | Terms of Service | Glossary | Advertising

Questions, comments, problems, please email webmaster@bimmerboard.com

©Copyright 2003-2009 BimmerBoard, LLC, All Rights Reserved.
No content from this web site may be reproduced or copied in any
form without the express written consent of BimmerBoard, LLC.


The BMW name and logos are registered trademarks of BMW AG
and BMW of North America, LLC.