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Subject: HOW TO- Open a locked rear door with a ceased door actuator Author: 04sshd : member since March, 2007 : 5549 posts Posted on: 2008-01-22 20:31:18

This how to covers opening a locked door that has a ceased actuator and a how to on replacing a bad rear door actuator.

Ok, so for the past 4 months or so I have had my drivers rear door actuator out. It wouldn't lock or unlock, and the actuator was ceased in the lock position. In this case I was unable to open the door from the outside nor the inside of the car. I just lived with the situation until I was finally able to figure out how to open the door.

First off, you must rip the door panel off, and I mean litterally, rip it off as with the door closed it is not meant to come off.

BE ADVISED, YOU WILL MOST LIKELY DAMAGE THE DOOR PANEL BY DOING THIS, THIS METHOD SHOULD BE CONSIDERED A LAST RESORT

First start by removing the rear seat bottom portion. This can be done by pushing in on the seat cushion towards the back of the car. Once it is free lift it and remove it from the vehicle. Crawl into the back seat area on the side that does open and start the standard door panel removal procedures.

-Remove the screw behind the inside door handle, remove the side small quarter window curtain if so equipped, remove the chrome trim on the top of the door panel for the quarter window.

Once all of these are removed I grabbed the door panel firmly by the map pocket and the door pull and gave it a few really hard tugs until it was free. It is not easy to do because the door rubber seal on the body of the car over laps the door panel and you will have to pull the panel past the door rubber. Once the panel is free of the door lift it up and remove the connectors for the tweeter, ash tray, lower door panel light, and window switch as you would normally take off the door panel. Work the inside door handle through the panel opening. Then take the panel out of the car and set it aside.

Once the panel is off remove the insulation and get a flash light and a flat head screw driver. Near the door latch there are two protective clear stickers, you will need to break through the one closest to the front of the car to access the actuator. The actuator is in the upper inner most section of the door and is not easily accessed. Position the flashlight inside the door to reveal the actuator and with the flat head maneuver between the actuator and the metal mounting plate.

this is a shot of the plastic cover you will need to break and where to insert the flat head.


This is the back of the actuator and the plate it sits on. You will not be able to see the actuator this clearly, as it has already been dropped down after the door has been opened in this pic. (picture is for reference so you know where to look)



Again for reference, this is the latch assembly with the actuator removed, you will need to pry the flat head and move the middle prong over to unlock


On the metal base the actuator sits on there are three prongs that the actuator sits on. The two outer ones are mounts, the inner ones control the door lock and unlock. Pry the flat head between the two outer prongs and move the middle prong until you hear it click. The door should now be unlocked. At this point you should be able to open the door from the inside or the outside of the car.


Before going this far I suggest purchasing a door actuator from the dealer. P/N- 67 11 8 352 165 Cost is about $87 each
It should be made by VDO






Once you have the actuator and you are ready to change it you will need to remove the side door jamb cover.

There is one push pin on the bottom that holds it on. Get a flat head or needle nose and pull it out than pry off the access panel.


Once that is removed you will expose 3 inverted torx bolts. You will need an E30 socket to remove these which can be found at most tool shops like sears, Harbor Freight, autozone, etc.


Remove the three E30 inverted torx bolts. This will release the whole actuator and latch assembly.

Once the latch assembly is free you will need to go back inside the door and release the outer door handle cable. With the latch unbolted you should be able to maneuver it enough to pull it out.




drop the latch assembly down enough to pry off the actuator.


Unplug the actuator harness





There is a plastic clip on the back side that holds it down. use your fingers to release the clip and use a flat head between the base to pry it up.

This is what you will have once the actuator is removed.


Now you will need to line up the new actuator with the position of the door latch. You can do this by connecting the harness and cycling the lock/unlock by your key remote until it matches the correct position.





Once you have the correct lock/unlock position matched the actuator will clip right in.


reconnect the outside door latch


maneuver the latch assembly back into place and bolt it back in


reinstall the access side cover and door panel and you are done. Now I did break my door panel's top mount while ripping it off, so I ended up replacing them with these 750 door panels.


All done!


This is the reason the actuator was ceased-

New actuator on the top, old on the bottom. Look at the back of the actuator. Notice the extra bulge?


This is the second actuator I have had ceased on my car. The drivers front did the same thing except it was stuck in the unlocked position. I changed that one about 4 months ago.

Exact same thing happened to both of them


The inside gears start to bind and it shoots the gear wheel out the back of the motor


Hopefully none of you have to experience this but if you do at least you will know how to fix it! Good luck.

Colin@HID Solutions Moorpark, CA

99 E38 740iL Silver on Grey leather, 18" Style 94 wheels, lighted handles, self leveling xenons, Rover MK3, 4:3 screen awaiting installation, New OSV.
95 E38 740iL Oxford Metallic Green on Black leather, Fresh Paint, 01 Face lift, Alpina front spoiler air damn, 6000k HID's, 8000k HID Fogs, Neon/LED tails, quad brake light mod, 20% tint all around, PIAA Yellow Hi-beams, 01 Headlights, 750 grills, Staggered Chrome M-Pars, HR Drop Springs, Monroe Struts, Strong Strut, CCFL Angel eyes, 4 pos euro foglight switch, euro front plate base, euro Germany front plate from Edwin, 16:9 Widescreen Navigation, MK4, BM43, home made stereo iPod integration, gauge rings, CF cluster bezel, 750 rear door panels, BMWNA goodwill cluster, trunk spoiler.
86 E30 325es coupe, black on black, 5 speed manual, M Shift knob, M-tech steering wheel, Sport seats, 13 function OBC (parting out)
02 Harley Davidson custom build chopper, S&S Super 100ci, rev-tec 6 speed trans, Corbin seat, billet wheels, streached tank and frame
00 Cadillac DeVille, OnStar, HID's, Chrome Vouge rims
99 Ford Ranger XLT, V6, 5 speed
87 Pontiac TransAm, Tuned Port Injected 305, Auto, B&M Shifter, 99 TransAm Leather seats.
03 Honda CBR 600RR, Yoshi pipe, fender eliminator kit, 6000k HID kit, 3800 miles
03 Honda XR50, Yamaha plastics and sticker kit, big bore 88cc kit
00 Kawasaki KX500 2 stroke, WER steering dampener, FMF pipe, acerbis lever gards, protaper bars, desert tank
02 Ford Crown Victoria Police Interceptor (SOLD)
99 Yamaha R1, full show bike(SOLD)
91 E32 735iL (SOLD)
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• HOW TO- Open a locked rear door with a ceased door actuator (pic) - 04sshd 2008-01-22 20:31:18 (8188 views)
  • Nice!! I hope it never happens to anyone else. (nt) - visionbmw7 2008-01-23 12:50:39 (202 views)
  • Nice Job Colin! - thesteve 2008-01-22 22:36:37 (182 views)
  • great DIY! Now I know what those wierd looking bolts on the latch are called - ian 2008-01-22 21:37:53 (181 views)
  • Yet a nother Awesome fix my man! see you tomorrow! (nt) - Edwin 2008-01-22 21:08:47 (187 views)
    • sounds like a plan! (nt) - 04sshd 2008-01-22 23:58:20 (172 views)