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Subject: How to replace the rear door lock actuator Author: kc314 : member since January, 2006 : 1255 posts Posted on: 2007-10-05 07:04:55

This actuator needed to be replaced because it was "lazy", only locking maybe half the time. The actuator's part number is 67-11-8-352-165.

Special tools needed: T-20 Torx screwdriver, E12 External Torx driver (a female Torx socket, available at Sears, either as a $20 set or a $40 set – we used the $20 option).

To get orientated, the actuator is directly above the door latch.

Begin the process by removing the inner door panel and vapor barrier, just as if you were replacing the window regulator.

There is a piece of black plastic trim that runs from the bottom up the rear of the door, ending just above the latch. Its part numbers are 51-42-8-150-859 (left) and 51-42-8-150-860 (right). This piece is cheap ($13), which is good, because it will likely break when you pry it loose. The picture below shows the door after removal of the inner panel, vapor barrier, and trim piece. See the small "window" just above the door latch? The actuator is behind that. FYI, that window is an access hole for a nut holding the outer door handle.



Look inside the door, just below the latch, beside the outer skin. You will see the Bowden cable from the outer door handle. Disconnect the cable from the large metal latch mechanism with needle-nosed pliers or a bent screwdriver.


Where the green cables from the inner door handle and lock button disappear into the door, there are two T-20 Torx screws, probably hidden by the vapor barrier caulk (also known as goo). Remove the screws (see arrows below) to release the cable holders from the door. Remember which cable goes on top.




Break out the E12 socket and remove the three Torx bolts that hold the latch mechanism in place.




You will now be able to push the latch back and down to see the actuator. Disconnect the electrical cable from it (slide the cover down and pull the connector out).




The latch mechanism is too big to come out the upper hole. Work it down to the bottom of the door so you can get at it.



Once it's down there, a screwdriver will pop the actuator off the metal plate on the back of it. Press the new actuator on, being careful to line up the holes on the bottom of the actuator with the metal pins that stick up into them.


Reverse the steps to reinstall the latch mechanism, after taking time to lubricate everything. Be careful to not trap the outer door handle cable when working the latch back into place. The Torx bolts holding the latch in place had LocTite Blue on them, so you should use that when replacing them. Also, you may have to adjust the position of the latch to get the door to close properly. On our first attempt, the door wouldn't unlock when closed because the latch was not exactly in the right position.

98 740iL
Nashville, TN

• How to replace the rear door lock actuator (pic) - kc314 2007-10-05 07:04:55 (4266 views)
  • Well done (nt) - dcrane 2007-10-05 12:21:51 (193 views)
  • Well done! This is going on e38.org (nt) - DavidC 2007-10-05 12:19:24 (181 views)
  • Good Job - BJames38 2007-10-05 10:55:20 (147 views)
  • Nice one.....well done. (nt) - beechy 2007-10-05 10:45:08 (146 views)
  • Nice Job! thanks for the effort! (nt) - Edwin 2007-10-05 09:46:48 (155 views)
  • Wow, good work. You did it correctly-- infinetly easier than my R&R (url) - Brian 2007-10-05 08:28:21 (239 views)
  • Nice! I've had a replacement sitting in my trunk for over a month now. Maybe - Stygian7 2007-10-05 08:23:39 (155 views)
  • Excellent writeup! I'm sure thats headed for e38.org (nt) - Ultymte 2007-10-05 08:05:36 (159 views)
  • Great Writeup! Well done. (nt) - farnarkler 2007-10-05 07:55:12 (149 views)
  • Nice write up! E-38.org 4 sure (nt) - Blue740i 2007-10-05 07:37:30 (236 views)