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Subject: Another Window Regulator Instructional Author: cyberdactyl : member since March, 2007 : 80 posts Posted on: 2007-05-06 17:38:32

I realize
BRIAN has probably the best instructional for replacing a rear window regulator, however after replacing mine this weekend, I believe I can offer some additional useful information. While Brian’s work is outstanding in disassembly, I feel he was a hair short on re-assembly clarity, which for me, was almost as difficult.

I have a 2000 E38 740i without the window shade or security glass, so my project was a tad easier than Brian’s 1998 E38 740iL. Also, in my case, I did not have to remove the window. . a HUGE time saver. Bear with me if I repeat a few of Brian’s steps and read Brian’s work in conjunction with this. It’s critical to do so because I have purposely left out some aspects so as to not be too redundant.

First I removed the door panel. I made a couple of small wood wedges, about ¾” wide and about ¼” thick and sanded them smooth. I used the wood wedges instead of a flat head screw driver so I would not cut, damage or mar the door panel edge or the door's paint as I popped the clips from the door. It’s important to pry the panel at or very near the clip points and not between the clips. It’s fairly easy to tell if you’re at a clip as the panel edge will flex if you pry between them.

Next I removed the panel from the top metal clips. You must raise the panel off the center clips (green arrows) before attempting to free the panel from the top clips. I had a hell of a time getting the door panel to pop free of the top clips. Almost to the point of thinking I was going to damage the panel. However, after a lot of effort, the panel came away. Be careful as you pull the door panel away as there are several wires attached. Most can be easily disconnected. I found it to be too difficult to remove the lower foot light wiring plug, so I cut the wires. (red circle).



Next remove the chrome plastic trim at the top. Be VERY careful removing this so you don’t crack or bend it. The trim has a lip at the bottom (yellow arrow) which the clip snaps.



Next remove the speaker housing and the optic fiber light bracket (green circle). No need to unplug the light itself, let it hang.
For me this where I depart from Brian’s work. I only needed to peel away the lower half of the vapor/sound shield and tape it up and out of the way to access the regulator (purple boundary). DO NOT cut the foam vapor/sound shield to remove it, there’s no need.

I did not remove the window, so I did not use the center access hole to get to the upper right regulator anchor point (yellow circle with X). If you do not remove the window there’s no way to access the screw because the glass is in the way no matter what position.

Next, loosen the lower screw that anchors the regulator to the door.

Next, remove the screw that holds the window to the regulator lifter bracket and pull the window fully to the top and tape it to the top of the window frame to keep it from falling.
Hopefully your window is not stuck fully up, mine was at the halfway point, but either way this will work but if yours is fully up it may be a bit more difficult.

Next, remove the screw through its access hole closest to the door hinge that anchors the regulator to the door.

Next, gently lower the window ALL the way to the bottom of the door’s cavity. Don’t worry, it will not lower so far as to come out of the track.

Next, and this is somewhat of a pain, using a small open end or closed end wrench remove the screw holding the upper center regulator anchor point through the window slot at the top. This is more easily said than done, but it CAN be done. Here I’ve put some tape on the window so I wouldn’t scratch the glass as I worked the screw and also put some tape on one of the clip as it was sharp to a moving hand



Below, as you can see, with the window all the way down in the door’s cavity and disconnected from the regulator, it can be pulled back far enough to get a small, thin wrench to the screw. Once you have the screw all the way out be careful to not put too much pressure on the glass. The tape will help guard against any scratch. Let the screw drop or remove it with some needle nose pliers.

Now raise the glass again and tape it off and remove the regulator.

HERE'S a website that will fix regulators for about 1/3 the cost of a new one.
Mine below was $85 to get repaired. (yellow arrow was for another discussion)







REASSEMBLY

During re-assembly there are a few things you should be aware.

First, put the hard to access upper screw in the regulator and hold it in place with a small piece of tape. Believe me, this is WAY easier than trying to feed it into the hole from above.

Put the regulator into position.

Now raise and secure the window with tape again. Attach the other two screws, but keep them slightly loose so you can align the hard to access screw with its hole.

Lower the glass again as far as possible and attach the hard to access screw by again working through the window slot. Finding the hole in the door will be trial and error, but you’ll get it sooner than you think. Tighten it down. Once done, raise and secure the window and tighten the other two screws.

Next lower and attach the window to the regulator.

Now press the vapor/sound shield back into the sticky black sealant and reattach the speaker housing and the fiber optic bracket.

HERE’S A CRITICAL bit of advice. Slip the black snap brackets onto the door’s metal receivers (green arrows in the first pic) DO NOT attach the black plastic pieces to the door's clips and attempt to lower the door panel onto them, you'll find it near impossible

If you cut the lower light wires as I did, wire nut them together.

All this is a little tough because you must hold the door panel close enough to re-attach all the wiring but far enough away to get your hands down into areas to do just that.
I had a difficult time feeding the door’s handle into the hole at the same time getting the door lock in its hole. I did this by myself, but if I had help I’m sure it would have been much easier.

Also critical: Put the door panel back on first before re-attaching the metal trim at the top.

You’re done.

Again, use this along with Brian’s instructional and you'll do this for around $90 versus $400-500 having a mechanic do it!

• Another Window Regulator Instructional (pic) (url) - cyberdactyl 2007-05-06 17:38:32 (6148 views)
  • Re: Another Window Regulator Instructional - cyberdactyl 2007-05-07 20:15:35 (341 views)
  • Good info. Added to e38.org (nt) - DavidC 2007-05-07 16:13:38 (199 views)
  • Great work! - Brian 2007-05-07 11:44:38 (151 views)
  • Was this the weekend for reg. repl? I did one today! - mgood 2007-05-06 20:45:29 (228 views)
  • Re: Another Window Regulator Instructional - swordsman 2007-05-06 20:40:12 (215 views)
  • I'm sure Dave will move this to e38.org, Great Job! (nt) - Blue740i 2007-05-06 20:27:38 (184 views)
  • Second what Ultymte said, Good work thanks (nt) - BJames38 2007-05-06 19:38:33 (159 views)
  • Excellent write-up, and a relative newby at that! Great job! (nt) - Ultymte 2007-05-06 17:40:15 (185 views)