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OEM Bimmer Parts

This message is marked as Important.
Subject: Factory Xenon headlights retrofit
Author: davidc (moderator) : member since December, 2003 : 10060 posts
Posted on: 2004-02-16 19:27:22

For some reason (DOT regs, I suppose), BMW didn't include Xenon headlights as an option on most early e38's. They were available in Europe, however, and they are a direct swap-in replacement for your existing halogen headlights.

Places like Bekkers.com sell the OEM Xenon headlights, though they're somewhat expensive unless you're lucky enough to find a set on ebay or at a salvage yard (see www.e38.org for a list of salvage companies). I purchased mine from another e38 owner who had upgraded but removed them when he sold his car.

You'll need the following tools and a couple of hours for this project:
1. Philips screwdriver
2. Small and large flat-head screwdrivers
3. Torx T20 screwdriver (available at Sears, ACE Hardware, etc.)
4. High-temp chrome paint and primer (if you want to chromeline the headlight inserts)


The (new to me) OEM xenon headlights.


Here is Matilda, our 1997 740iL (117k miles), with the regular halogen headlamps. The inserts have already been chromelined, which is how I met Mark Caldwell (thanks, Mark!).


The first step is to remove the metal trim below the headlight. The metal piece slides toward the center of the car. I just used finger pressure to slide it, but you could also (carefully) insert a flat-blade screwdriver at the outer edge to get it started.


Next, remove the little plastic cover in the fender and insert a philips-tip screwdriver as shown above. We're loosening the retainer for the turn signal light assembly.


Once the screw is loose, the turn signal slides out. This would've been a good time to replace the egg-yolk bulb with a clear bulb, don't you think?


Locate and remove the two Torx T20 screws below the headlight.


Do the same for the two Torx T20 screws on the top of the headlight.


Disconnect the wiring harness behind the headlight. It moves up then away as depicted. Remove the entire headlight assembly from the vehicle and place it on a work surface.


Turn the assembly over and remove the three Torx T20 screws as depicted.


Use a flat-blade screwdriver to pry off the metal retaining clips that secure the glass to the assembly.


Carefully "pop" the tabs on the sides of the plastic casing to release the plastic trim which also holds the glass. This is the most difficult step of the entire process. Take your time and be careful not to break the plastic tabs.


Pull the plastic away and set it aside.


Now the glass can be separated from the assembly. Carefully pull it away, taking care not to tear the rubber gasket. Its a good idea to buy new rubber gaskets, too. The cost is around $12, as I recall (see john@bekkers.com). If you don't have new gaskets, apply a bit of vaseline jelly to the gasket when reassembling everything. That will help keep it watertight.


Now remove the plastic liner surrounding the headlight lenses. Mine were already chromelined, so I swapped them with the new ones. You can use high-temp chrome paint or just buy pre-chromed inserts (again, see john@bekkers.com).


Reinstall the chromelined inserts, along with the plastic lenses. If the plastic lenses appear yellowed, Mequire's Plastic Polishing Compound with a cotton rag and a bit of elbow grease will remove it.

Reverse the steps to reassemble everything and install the headlight back into your car and you're done! If your dashboard reports a problem with the front headlights, you'll need to make a trip to a dealer to have the onboard computer "coded" to recognize the Xenons. In my case, the car auomatically recognized them so this wasn't necessary.


For additonal photos and information on chromelining your headlights, see Mark Caldwell's Chromelining Page

David Cecil
'97 740iL, 117k miles
'86 735i, 91k miles

www.e38.org has links for everything about your BMW 7-series automobile


OEM Bimmer Parts

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