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Subject: Removing the dashboard from an '86 735i Author: DavidC (moderator) : member since December, 2003 : 12116 posts Posted on: 2004-08-26 23:26:04

For those of you considering removal of your dashboard to service the heater core or vacuum actuators, or if you're just the type who can't resist rubbernecking at accident scenes, here's something sure to please.

Actually, removing the dashboard isn't as dramatic or difficult as I had initially imagined. I've seen pages on the internet where people devise creative ways to replace the heater core without removing the dash, but after having done it I think removing the dash is probably better. It certainly gives you more room to work and, if your heater core is bad, its very likely that other components should be replaced, too, which are impossible to remove, otherwise.

So, here's the turbo tour of how to remove your dashboard.


First, remove the steering wheel, instrument cluster, check control panel, light switches, the HVAC control panel and sun visors. Remove the radio and the two 10mm bolts that hold the plastic frame to the console below. Remove the knee-panels below the steering wheel and on the passenger side. Remove the glovebox.



Detach the roof pillar trim on the left and right sides, followed by the A-pillar trim pieces.


The dash is held in place by a total of 6 bolts (numbers 1-6 in the diagram above) and two clips (numbers 7 and 8 in the diagram above).


Remove the six bolts from the underside of the dash.


Lift up on the rear of the dash, next to the windshield, to release the two clips, then slide the dash up and out of the passenger side of the car.


Depending on your model, you may have to disconnect a wire in the center grill on the top of the dash.


The dashboard removed from the car. Take care not to damage it -- they cost $800 new!


A view of the interior with the dashboard removed. Now you can easily access the heater box and the heater core within it, as well as the myriad of vacuum hoses and actuators for the HVAC system.

David Cecil
'97 740iL, 126k miles
'86 735i, 95k miles

www.e38.org has links for everything about your BMW 7-series automobile

• Removing the dashboard from an '86 735i (pic) - DavidC 2004-08-26 23:26:04 (7865 views)
  • Sorry, but this is precisely why I sold my L7 (more) - MarkD in NJ 2004-08-27 12:07:24 (927 views)
    • Its a lot of work, to be sure, but now I should have a good system - DavidC 2004-08-27 12:11:07 (702 views)
      • If my car was in the shape yours is AND a 5-speed, I would've done it. (e) (nt) - MarkD in NJ 2004-08-27 14:13:37 (642 views)
  • This is the point that I am at too. - luquette 2004-08-27 10:32:58 (570 views)
  • Looks like an explosion at a spaghetti factory - all those wires!! - philipuk 2004-08-27 03:18:14 (693 views)
    • That's a pretty accurate description! - DavidC 2004-08-27 12:09:34 (626 views)
  • Where were you 4 years ago when I did this? - kff 2004-08-26 23:35:01 (570 views)
    • Funny you should mention that. I don't have a gong in my car. - DavidC 2004-08-26 23:38:11 (585 views)
      • Re: Funny you should mention that. I don't have a gong in my car. - dave88te 2004-08-27 09:56:41 (537 views)
        • Nor when I leave the door open or the seatbelt unfastened. (nt) - DavidC 2004-08-27 12:06:21 (541 views)
      • It is the thing that you needed to disconnect from the dash - kff 2004-08-26 23:51:42 (757 views)
        • Ah, so that's what that is. I reconnected it when the dash was reinstalled, but - DavidC 2004-08-26 23:59:24 (577 views)
          • i rigged it so it would gong only from temp and max speed - Kevin Elmore 2004-08-27 18:37:55 (498 views)
            • how did you get it to - dave88te 2004-08-31 21:00:55 (508 views)
              • Unplug the 2-wire connector on the gong as it is> - kff 2004-08-31 22:37:36 (531 views)
                • sweeeet. (nt) - dave88te 2004-09-01 11:03:21 (439 views)
          • Check the other ends of the wires and see if it connected. (nt) - kff 2004-08-27 00:09:49 (511 views)