Home | Detailing Forum | Post New Message | Search | Contact Moderator | Sign In  












Click to make a donation to support BimmerBoard
Related Links
BMW CCA
Indy Mechanics
E38.org Wiki
Specialty Forums
IBUS Forum
Garage Forum
Navigation A/V
Bluetooth
For Sale
Want To Buy
Off-Topic
Detailing
///M
Kill Stories
Group Buys
Vanos Forum
Meet & Greet
TEST FORUM

Forums for Current Model BMW's
1 Series E81
3 Series E90
5 Series E60
6 Series E63/E64
7 Series E65/E66
7 Series F01/02 NEW
X3 E83
X5 E70
X6 E71
Z4 E85
MINI Cooper

Forums for Past Model BMW's
2002
3 Series E21
3 Series E30
3 Series E36
3 Series E46
5 Series E12
5 Series E28
5 Series E34
5 Series E39
6 Series E24
7 Series E23
7 Series E32
7 Series E38
8 Series E31
X5 E53
Z3
Z8 E52
CS E9
Senior Six E3

Model-specific Lounges
E32 Lounge
E38 Lounge

Regional Forums
Australia
Canada
United Kingdom
Netherlands

Forums for Local BMW Car Clubs
Dallas
Southern California
Minneapolis
Atlanta


Click here to advertise on BimmerBoard.com




Return to the forum index Detailing Forum

OEM Bimmer Parts

This message is marked as Important.
Subject: Whoops, Missed an image.
Author: absessler : member since February, 2006 : 3672 posts
Posted on: 2006-12-06 14:42:57      
Bookmark and Share

Depending on the condition and depth of the scratches, you can very well fix most errors by spending time! When I got my '95 it had a lot of swirls, but a good 2 days of work brought it back to a gorgeous, to die for shine.

Here is my procedure-


1. “Pre-detail Wash”

Get the wheel wells, the gas cap, all the nooks and crannies, in between the grill, etc. (and the engine bay if you are going to go that far –see my tutorial). I spend a good 3-4 hours washing mine with just soap and water when I am doing a full detail.

If you are going to be switching wax/polish products, I recommend using Dawn Dish washing soap for your “pre-detail wash”. It will remove all waxes and residues on the surface. It also can be a good measuring tool of the condition of your paint, as well taken care of paint will still bead up after you wash it with dawn.

2. Clay Bar Time!

A Paint Cleaning Clay Bar is a piece of clay that is made to remove pollution buildup along the surface of the paint. I have always used Griots clay bars, but a lot of people here have used other brands, too. You can find the Griots Garage Paint Cleaning Clay Bar here: http://www.griotsgarage.com/catalog.jsp?&SKU=11153

With the clay bar, lubrication is the key. You will be moving the clay bar back and forth across the paint, so without adequate lubrication, scratches become inevitable. I take a bottle of Griots Speed Shine (find it here: http://www.griotsgarage.com/catalog.jsp?&SKU=11146), and very generously cover a small area (maybe the size of ˝ the trunk lid). I will also spray a bit around the outside of that area, just to be safe. Some people have used soap and water as a substitute to the Speed Shine, but I have never used it, so I can’t tell you if there is any difference.

From there, you will want to take the clay bar (I like to use a set of latex gloves, as it keeps the clay out of your fingernails) and carefully glide it across the paint where you have sprayed your Speed Shine. You should not need to apply any pressure to the clay, and if it feels like it is sticking, stop and spray more Speed Shine (or whatever lubricant you are using). When you have enough lubrication on the surface, it should glide like a hockey puck. You may hear the clay moving across the surface. That sound is the clay grabbing the pollution, and you should notice that the sound will go away after a couple passes with the clay bar. You should not have to move the clay over the same spot more than a few times. While you are getting used to using the clay, I would remove the lubrication from the surface with a clean towel often, and taking the back of your hand, feel the paint. If all the deposits and pollution have been removed, you shouldn’t feel anything. Try comparing it to a spot you haven’t used the clay on yet. Amazing, isn’t it?

Do this over the entire car, working from top to bottom. Make sure to work the clay between your hands every once in a while to bring out a new surface of the clay. If you washed your car well, the clay bar should last you the entire car.

When you are done with the paint, you can also do the windows. It will leave a squeaky clean shine.


3. Orbital Polishing

The next step can be very dangerous if you do not know what you are doing, and if you are not careful. The polishes you use will vary greatly, depending on the depth of the scratches. I have found Griots (I am not associated with them, I swear! I just like their products) four step system to be the safest out there. There may be other products that could get the job done faster, but they also can create a mess in the wrong, inexperienced hands.

You can find the Four Step System here: http://www.griotsgarage.com/catalog.jsp?&SKU=11560

I use the now-replaced Porter Cable orbital that Griots used to sell. They have now replaced it with their own brand product, and if it is anywhere near as good as the one I got from them, it is well worth the money. Remember that Griots has a LIFETIME warranty, so if you have any problems, you can always return any of their products.

You can find the Orbital here: http://www.griotsgarage.com/catalog.jsp?&SKU=10925

For Pads I like to use the Orange Foam pads. They are strong, long lasting pads that keep the polish on the paint. You can find them here: http://www.griotsgarage.com/catalog.jsp?SKUupsell=10626


You will want to start out with the #3 or #4 polish to get an idea of what your paint needs. If scratches are still visible, you may always move to a rougher polish (#1 or #2). Just remember to finish it off with the rest of the series. (#2 removes #1’s swirls, #3 removes #2’s swirls, and so on)

To begin, apply the polish sparingly to an orange pad. More polish doesn’t always mean more results, but it will always mean more clean up and work to remove the residues. At the same time, not enough polish will leave the pad under-lubricated, resulting in scratches in the paint. I put 2-3 “swirls” of polish on the pad. Start out with a small area on the hood or trunk, and flip on the orbital at a low speed. Spread the polish around on the paint, letting the orbital do the work. When you begin to get comfortable with the orbital, bring the speed up a bit. Keep it where you feel comfortable. The faster the speed, the quicker the paint is ground by the polish.

Here is my pattern for polishing. I go through this pattern 3-4 times with each polish. Start with the black line, and then do the red line.




4. Hand Polishing (AKA: Zainoing)


This step can prove to be the most tiring and time consuming of them all, but it sure pays off!

Do note that there are alternatives to Zaino, such as Glaus-Haus, who is a member of this board. Many here praise his products. I plan on ordering from him soon, and will report my experiences with his products. Both are great products, but since I have only used Zaino, I will be writing about my experiences with that product.


A list of the Zaino Products is here: http://www.zainostore.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=Zaino


For my car, I used Z-5, Z-2, and ZFX. ZFX is an additive that is used to speed up the “curing” process of the polishes. It uses some fancy formula to allow the polish to bond to the surface of the paint much quicker. The result allows you to apply multiple coats of Zaino in one day, rather than waiting 24 hours between each coat.

I start with Z-5. Mix it with ZFX per the instructions included (which are fantastic, by the way!). Using only a very small amount, apply it to the surface of the paint in a small, swirling fashion. You don’t need to apply much, if any, pressure to the pad, and as always, I would start from top to bottom. You can use the polish on faded bumper inserts, chrome, and windows, but wait until you are done with the paint. The other materials, especially the plastics, will leave a dirty residue on the pad, forcing you to use a new one when you move back to the paint.

When you are finished with the entire car, take a look at a clock and remember the time. Now go walk away for an hour or two. Go take a jog, do that interior mod you have been putting off, browse the boards a bit, send me an email saying how much you love my tutorials, or just sit and stare at the work in project while enjoying the fruity smells of Zaino. It’s up to you! Just don’t touch the paint.

After those agonizing two hours have passed, and your back from the hospital because you passed out sniffing the different Zaino products, take a large, soft to the touch, cotton cloth and start lightly buffing the product off. It should come right off, and leave no residue. If you notice it is leaving anything behind, take another hour break. It is very important that it has dried completely, or it will not cure. Once you have removed the first coat, check out the new paint. You now have three options:

1. If you feel that another coat of Z-5 is necessary to fill in a few more swirls or light scratches, repeat the process.
2. If you feel that enough scratches have been filled in, move on to Z-2, and go through the same process you did with the Z-5.
3. If you are completely overwhelmed, and don’t believe your eyes after one coat, you can run around screaming until the whole neighborhood thinks your crazy.

5. Go for a drive. Go through some twisties, open up the sunroof, and watch the smile on your face grow. Most importantly, take some pictures and post them for us.

________________________________________________
Alex -
Bellevue, WA

2000 740iL - 55,000 Miles
1995 740i - 130,000 Miles



The Detailing Forum | Message Thread:


This thread is closed to new posts.


Make a donation to support BimmerBoard


Home | Privacy Policy | Terms of Service | Glossary | Advertising

Questions, comments, problems, please email webmaster@bimmerboard.com

©Copyright 2003-2009 BimmerBoard, LLC, All Rights Reserved.
No content from this web site may be reproduced or copied in any
form without the express written consent of BimmerBoard, LLC.


The BMW name and logos are registered trademarks of BMW AG
and BMW of North America, LLC.