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Subject: Adjusting 16x9 BoardMonitor (Very Long) Author: texaspaul : member since March, 2005 : 383 posts Posted on: 2006-06-14 22:18:05

Last August, I completed a virgin navigation retrofit of Nav to my 2001 540i, and I have always noticed that the colors in the screen were quite vivid when viewed from a position about a foot lower than my normal viewing position, but grey-out from normal viewing position. This is likely because my 16x9 is from an X5, which has a considerably different viewing angle.
I noticed earlier this year a thread that attached a BMW document printed in German that ostensibly was instructions for adjusting the video characteristics of the monitor. Later, I pulled a thread from an M5 board, where a German owner named Frits used these instructions to tackle the issue of disassembling his 16x9 widescreen, ostensibly from an X5, to adjust the focus point higher to account for difference in physical mounting angle in the M5. He described the entire process in English. This post is an update of his post based on my similar experience. Attached are a number of pictures, some his some mine, documenting the process.
1. Remove the trim ring around the board monitor to gain access to the four fillister screws holding the monitor in place. The trim ring is attached at the bottom of the monitor at 3 points with plastic tabs. (Picture 1).
2. Remove the 4 fillister screws that attach the monitor to the dash mounting frame (Picture 2) and pull the monitor out of the dashboard. Tilt the monitor down to get access to the plugs on the back of the unit and remove the white bale-style plug first (Picture 3). Then push the tape access button to tilt out the monitor screen and then remove the blue plug before the monitor closes automatically (10-15 seconds).
3. At this point, take the monitor into the house to a location where you have a chair, plenty of table space and plenty of light (Picture 4). You are now ready to open up the monitor. Open the top cover of the monitor (Picture 5) by removing the top metal cover. There are 2 black screws at the back side, and 2 black screws at the top. Remove those screws, and lift up the cover.
4. Under the cover, (Picture 6) on one side you'll see two copper colored ribbon cables (CCRC’s). These need to be disconnected in order to allow the LCD screen to be separated from the unit to allow disassembly and enable access to the monitor adjustment potentiometers. These two CCRC’s connect to the circuit board via two white connectors. Although virtually invisible to the eye, each of these connectors has a white collar around the top of the connector. If you can get a fingernail under the collar you can lift it about 1mm, which will release the CCRC from the white connector. Note that each of these cables has two tabs that attach the cable to pins on the inside of the housing to provide strain relief. Slip the CCRC’s off these two pins.
5. The next step is to remove the screen from the main housing (Picture 7). Remove the two screws on each side (now you see why you had to press the eject button to open the screen) and slide the CCRC’s out of the main housing.
6. Now that the screen is separated from the main housing (Picture 8) the next step is to remove the screen circuit board from its case. To do this, remove the four screws from the back of the case (Picture 9). Turn the unit screen side up, gently pop the top loose from the bottom then and gently lift the top half of the case starting with the top edge. CAUTION . . . Before the top half can be opened all the way, it will be necessary to remove the two small screws holding the ambient light sensor to the bottom edge of the top half of the case (Picture 10). If not careful here, you may damage wires to this sensor. Set the top half of the case aside.
7. Remove the screen from the black rear cover. No screws, just lift the print out of the cover. It is a close fit so you will need to pry the circuit board up gently at all four corners. Then lift the board out slipping the CCRC’s through the slot in bottom half of the case. Put the rear cover in a safe place, you'll only need it again when finished.
8. On the backside of the circuit board spanning the CCRC’s, you'll see two rows of tiny adjustment screws (potentiometers) as shown in Picture 12. There are six screws in the right hand row and four in the left. Find a screwdriver that reliably fits these screws. A small screwdriver with a flat blade about 1/16th inch wide worked best for me.
9. Frits found that the screws he needed, were in four screw row on the left side. He used the first and second screw, starting from the bottom. He wasn’t sure if the first screw did any good, but the second one seemed to do the trick, although he did not describe the visual changes to his monitor. My experience with which screws provided improvement was different. Some of the screws produced imperceptible changes, while others were very sensitive.
10. From my experience, I recommend the following process for making adjustments:
a. First if you examine the adjustment screws with a magnifying glass, you will note that the screws are not perfectly round. Each has a flat side (Picture 13). The first step is to make a diagram recording the position of each flat. If you can do this with a photo, all the better. This will allow you to restore the original settings if you don’t like the result of your adjustments.
b. Now, you need to make your monitor operational again, while having access to the adjustment screws. Making it operational, means reconnecting the CCRCs. To be able to reach the adjustment screws, you should NOT route the cables through the slots as they were routed originally. You should route them to the white connectors over the top of the main housing (Picture 14) Lift the white collars on the connectors and insert the CCRC’s, then pushing down on the collars to clamp the connectors on to the CCRC’s. The blue line on the CCRC is level with the top of the connector when the CCRC is properly inserted.
c. Now you're ready to go back to your car, and do some adjustments. A second pair of hands is very useful at this point because you need to hold onto the housing, the screen and reconnect the cables without scratching the monitor or any of the trim in your vehicle. Before you try to connect the 2 plugs to the back of the housing, remember that the screen brackets will close once power is applied. Make sure you hold the screen and the CCRC’s clear of this motion when the blue plug is reconnected.
d. Now, with the housing inserted back into the dash, put the monitor board in about the same position as when it is normally installed (see Picture 14). If when you turn on the ignition, the screen remains blank, you didn't connect the CCRC’s correctly. Unplug everything, go back inside, and reconnect these cables. Assuming you have video you are ready to begin adjustments.
e. I regret that I did not properly record what happened when we adjusted each screw. However, here is what I found. Screw 2 on the left is brightness and is very sensitive. If I remember correctly, screw 2 on the right side is contrast and is again very sensitive. When all was said and done, I returned most of the screws to their original positions. Screws four and six on the right improved the color saturation of the screen as viewed from the correct height when rotated counter clockwise. I suggest making trial adjustments in 1/8th of a turn increments.
f. To make these adjustments in the car, rotate the screen board up to a horizontal position and make the adjustments from below. To locate the correct screw and turn it the desired amount requires good light in the vehicle and someone with good eyesight (you will want to be able to see the flats on the screws). After making an adjustment, rotate the board back down to “normal” position and view the result of the change from normal head height. You may also want to view the screen in normal daylight conditions and switch back and forth between Nav maps and radio screens.
11. Once satisfied with the adjustments, take the monitor back out, disconnect the white and blue plugs, leaving the screen brackets in their open position as before and go back inside, to put everything back together.
12. First put the back cover on the screen, routing the CCRC’s through the slot in the back of the case making sure no slack remains inside the case (you'll need all the CCRC length for reconnecting it).
13. Then put the front cover back on. First you'll have to attach the ambient light sensor again (Picture 10). Then reinstall the 4 screws again in the back.
14. Now the CCRC’s should be routed through the slot in the housing to the white connectors. Once the cables are routed, you should reattach the screen to the housing so you won't have to hold it all the time, and you'll have 2 hands for connecting the CCRC’s.
15. Make sure the CCRC’s are fully inserted to the blue line and properly clamped down.
16. Replace the top housing cover and fasten with the four black screws.
17. Now go back to the car, and plug the blue and white monitor connectors into the back of the housing. Remember that the monitor screen will close again, once the blue connector is inserted. Reinsert the board monitor into the dashboard mounting frame.
18. Turn on the ignition and make sure you have video (Picture 15).
19. If everything is working OK, reinstall the four fillister screws that fasten the entire unit to the dashboard mounting frame.
20. Replace the trim ring and you are done. Shinerbock time!!!!!
Many thanks to Frits for his original write-up. Even though I had no luck with the adjustment screws that seemed to solve his problem, without his diligent effort to record his experience, I would not have known how to attempt this task.
































TexasPaul: 2001 540i 6Spd, Dinan Exhaust, Stage 1 Software,
Front Strut Tower Brace, & Stage 2 Suspension, Mk IV Nav,
Bluetooth, & Sirius Retrofits, Passport 8500 X50

• Adjusting 16x9 BoardMonitor (Very Long) (pic) - texaspaul 2006-06-14 22:18:05 (14733 views)
  • awsome writeup Paul. this is E38.org worthy for sure. (nt) - LA-Sean 2006-06-15 13:09:31 (542 views)
  • Finally a difinitive answer to this question... - jcarey 2006-06-15 09:23:27 (544 views)
  • This is a very commendable effort! Good job. (nt) - Mak7 2006-06-15 02:50:11 (466 views)