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OEM Bimmer Parts

Subject: My answers to your questions
Author: cn as CNN-090 : member since July, 2004 : 981 posts
Posted on: 2006-05-20 15:44:05      
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>>> 1. I know there is a drain plug on the cylinder block which you can drain the coolant more completely. Where exactly is the location?

Pages 11-12 in the link below (from a 98 bmw 328i cabriolet but same engine) shows you where the engine drain plug should be:
http://www.bimmerdiy.com/diy/e36coolingsystem

I did the entire Cooling system and flushed with alot of water so it was not an issue for me. Plus I knew it was a pain to get to the engine drain plug, so I did not bother looking for it.
If you find it, please post pic so everyone can see.
I guess to be "kosher", remove the engine drain plug as you wish.


>>> 2. Since you mentioned that don’t overtightening the bolts and nets of installing the thermostat housing, water pump, and clutch/fan assembly, do you know the torque measures on these?

I have done so many cars over the years so alot of what I do is by feel (shame on me for not using torque wrench!!!), I wrote the above post for general public so I have to mention "use proper torques". If you want to know the whole story then BMW published a table called "BMW N 600 02.0" for torques values (not unique to BMW, you can use this table for any cars):

http://www.tedserbinski.com/m3/docs/bmw_torq.pdf

The smaller bolts and nuts (M8 or M10) have smaller torque values and easier to strip than larger bolts.

(As an aside, when I cook, I do not use measuring devices, I cook by feel and tastes because the measuring devices slow me down!!!!)

>>>>3. Instead of using screwdriver prying out the water pump, some people mentioned that using two M6 bolts to drive out the water pump. Is it still true?

I have never tried the M6 bolts. I guess you can.
The screwdriver trick works just fine.
Do not worry about damaging the mating surfaces (although you should try to be as gentle as possible) because unlike other BMW or cars, whose WP seal to the engine uses a flat gasket, the E39 WP uses an O-ring and the sealing surface sits INSIDE the Hole.
Look at Steps 11 and 12, you will see where the O-ring sits, approx. 7 mm from the out edge. This is the surface that you want to be smooth when installing NEW WP.

LAST NOTE: WP..as I mentioned, I am not an expert so I go by rumors and my cousin who is a BMW mechanic.
Geba and Graf...my cousin has quite a few leaks from these so he only uses dealer WP.
The Rumor is HEPU makes BMW OEM WP (like the one I showed in Fig 12) and after close examination, they look almost like identical brothers.

Worried? Buy BMW OEM WP from dealer around $88 or so.
Not worried? Use HEPU WP, I know the Volvo folks (I am one of them) love HEPU because they last well over 100K.
Besides, I am changing the Whole Cooling Systsme every 80K or so, so it does not matter to me anyway. Any WP theat last 80-100K is fine for me.
The HEPU WP I put in my E39, it is a PERFECT fits. It slides in the Housing beautifully.
So far bone dry, absolutely no leak.

***** Just curious why your wife E39's Waterpump fails so quick at 28K (This is what I hear from Graf and Geb users)? Is it a replacement WP that fails or stock WP?
Let us know when you remove your WP and shows us why it fails so we can all learn which brand and why it fails.

Good Luck.

CNN-090
98 528i 5sp 89K
98 Volvo V70


OEM Bimmer Parts

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