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OEM Bimmer Parts

This message is marked as Important.
Subject: Backup Camera Installation Summary
Author: Brian (moderator) : member since January, 2005 : 9573 posts
Posted on: 2006-03-12 21:41:54      
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I just completed a backup camera installation on my 1998 E38. I will not go into much detail about the wiring and video module connectivity stuff, because that is covered very well in sealbeach740’s installation post and Magnum’s installation post. I spent some time researching cameras and installation locations, and decided on a slightly different approach from most of the installations.

I like the look of the bumper installations, but I wanted a view that pointed down slightly so that I could see objects relative to the bumper. This is the way that BMW OEM backup camera cit is oriented, and similar to most SUV and minivan installations. So, I had to figure out a way to mount the camera higher so that I could angle it toward the ground slightly. I ruled out the BMW kit, because of cost ($600 USD) and the fact that it is on an indefinite North American backorder. So, I went on a search for a camera that is as small as possible and that I could tuck up under the license plate overhang, kind of like the OEM camera.

I followed the lead of sealbeach740, smovva, and a few others that bought camera from Misumi directly in Taiwan. I had to make two key decisions about camera technology before I even chose the form factor. First is CCD versus CMOS sensors. I chose CCD, because everything I read said that the CCD images are better and they have better night sensitivity. Most of the inexpensive cameras on eBay are CMOS. You usually have to spend well above $100 to get a good CCD camera. Second is the viewing angle. I picked a 130 degree viewing angle, so that I would be able to get a wide angle side to side and get a straight-back view with the camera pointed down. I think that a 130 degree viewing angle is perfect for a typical backup camera installation. Again, most of the eBay cameras are something around 90 degree viewing angles, so they have too narrow a field of view to see everything behind the car.

Also, make sure that you get a “mirror image” camera. Backup cameras should be reversed, so that the image you see on the display is the same as you would see if you looked in your rearview mirror. Finally, make sure that you get a waterproof camera. The inexpensive cameras often have problem with moisture in the lens. Oh yeah. Make sure that you get an NTSC camera.

I picked the Misumi MS-DC54 camera. It was $80 plus about $40 shipping. I considered that a total bargain. It is one of the “bumble bee” style cameras that is the smallest I have found anywhere. It’s distinguishing feature is that it has the camera’s electronics pack in a separate module from the camera itself. This makes the camera very tiny. Additionally, it is rated for 1 Lux sensitivity. This is more than enough to see in dark conditions, and overkill when you throw in your car’s reverse lights and tail lights. This is the Misumi kit. It comes with the camera, some stainless steel mounting hardware, and a long cable to run power and video.


I had to remove the trunk lid liner to access route the wiring and remove the exterior license plate trim piece. The trunk liner is held in place by the tool kit, a plastic trim piece around the lock, the plastic pull-down handle, and about 16 door panel clips. Here is a picture of it removed.


I routed the camera wires along with the main wires in the trunk. The hardest part is feeding them through the two rubber wire guards the feed from the trunk lid into the quarter panel. Big tip here: lube the wires with something like WD40 or some other light lubricant. The wires will slip easily through the rubber things.


To remove the license plate trim piece, you need to remove the trunk lock, the four license plate screw plugs, and the rubber trim that snaps between the trunk lid and the plastic trim. Then slide the trim piece down about ˝” and it will come free. After I removed the license plate trim, I attached the camera to the overhang about the license plate. You can see the approximate location from this picture. I used two of the stainless steel sheet metal screws that came with the camera.


Next, I lined up the license trim piece and marked the location of a hole I needed to cut to let the camera through. I used a Dremil with a router bit to carve the hole. The plastic is very hard and high quality, so the cutting went very easily.


Finally, here is the finished installation. You can barely see the camera.


This is a daytime picture of my display with the camera on. The dark, curved band across the bottom of the picture is my bumper. You can see a spot on the ground about 14” to 18” away from edge of the bumper. And, you can see things at the corner of the bumper. The image is actually a little better than this, but this is the best I could do with my digital camera.


Here is the same view at night. I had all of the lights on my house off, and my car’s tail lights and reverse lights are on. You can see plenty well.


Brian's 1998 E38 740iL


OEM Bimmer Parts

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